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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
G Offline
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
I hope to begin cutting out the rested one this week. The right side had collapsed too.
I have the new bolts for that area but won’t know about any framing until I get it out.
I have a new floorboard and a new Tig welder that I will need to learn how to use.
Question, do I need to clean or remove anything on the metal before welding it?
Thank you.


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Unless you're using flux core wire in a wire feed machine, the metal needs to be CLEAN.
I would say that most of us use MIG, (I do anyway), but TIG would work well also. If you go that route check HERE. A lot of the info there would apply to TIG as well, especially about metal shrinkage.

I would practice on scrap pieces of metal before trying to weld on your truck.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2010
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5
Renaissance Man
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Spend a lot of time on the YouTube on how to weld automotive sheet metal. It will save you a lot of unnecessary frustration.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,306
K
'Bolter
'Bolter
K Offline
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Posts: 2,306
I enjoy this guy and he has videos of replacing panels on these trucks. Carter Auto Restyling

Last edited by Gdads51; 05/22/2025 2:50 PM. Reason: add direct link to video source

1954 Canadian GMC 9300
"The Journey"
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C
'Bolter
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TIG will work very well for what you are doing. Unless you are familiar with TIG, it will take you some time and experimentation to learn what works best. As stated, the metal MUST be very clean, and you will need to be in an area when there is not much disruption to the gas. As with anything, practice makes perfect and since no one is perfect--well, you get the idea.


Work is the curse of the drinking class
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thank you all for your individual responses. I will be using MIG, no gas. I found a really nice fellow that runs a large machine shop within a few miles of my home. He has lots of thin metal I can get to practice on & use as needed.
I don’t even know what gauge metal pan this is so I’ve requested that information from the seller. It is zink plated,
Big weeken here so maybe I can start next week!


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
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Joined: Feb 2019
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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You’ll need to grind the galvanized (zinc) coating back out of the heat affected area, because the fumes from it are deadly. I would advise you to wear a respirator to protect your health. The floor is 18 gauge steel.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Joined: Aug 2015
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G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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It’s pretty thin sheet metal, could I use MEK or other remover instead of sanding? Just curious.
Pictures of what’s under the carpet.
I have the bolts for both bottom floor mounts. Got to figure out what part is sunk in . Rear cab mounts look good.
Attachments
IMG_2775.jpeg (314.35 KB, 45 downloads)
IMG_2774.jpeg (298.78 KB, 45 downloads)
IMG_2773.jpeg (363.8 KB, 44 downloads)
IMG_2772.jpeg (325.28 KB, 44 downloads)


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 806
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 806
I know I’m jumping ahead a lot but, I’m thinking instead of removing the brakes & clutch pedal shafts, just cut the floorboard so they can be pried to the point they fit?
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IMG_2776.jpeg (184.13 KB, 42 downloads)


1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton
Working on my project since 2015
Follow along in my DITY
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
A few comments.
1. Most repop sheet metal patch panels are NOT galvanized or zinc plated. That would make them too expensive to buy. What Phil said about welding on galvanized is true, it can be deadly. If you're talking MEK to remove the galvanizing (if they really are galvanized,) that won't work unless the "galvanizing" is spray-on zinc.
2. If you're using MIG, then you should be using a shielding gas. CO2 is okay and cheaper than argon. MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas. Flux core (without gas) uses a different polarity than MIG which tends to make it penetrate deeper, not something you want when welding sheet metal.
3. The clutch and brake pedals unbolt beneath the floor and can be removed so you can line up the holes. I'd suggest you do that part right instead of buggering up the patch panel.

Last edited by klhansen; 05/24/2025 5:00 AM. Reason: added more info

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,471
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,471
Originally Posted by klhansen
If you're using MIG, then you should be using a shielding gas. CO2 is okay and cheaper than argon. MIG stands for Metal Inert Gas
I use a Argon/CO2 mix for welding steel on my machine.
Originally Posted by klhansen
The clutch and brake pedals unbolt beneath the floor and can be removed so you can line up the holes.
I agree, both are easily removable from beneath the floor.

Last edited by Phak1; 05/24/2025 1:00 PM. Reason: Additional info

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum

Moderated by  klhansen 

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