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#1575902 04/26/2025 11:50 AM
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The bottoms of the cab corners like to rot out and I see that cab corners are available. Would the patch fit outside/over the corner and kind of be riveted in place over the bad spot, maybe giving it a industrial look? I am not a bodyman at all and wouldn't try to weld it in, but a riveted cover patch would be acceptable for me. Like iron on blue jean knee patches from yesteryears.

texczech #1575905 04/26/2025 12:09 PM
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
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texczech - What truck are you working on??? If for an AD Series truck, cab corner patch panels are available for both inner and outer pieces. Depending on if you have enough metal on the outer patch panel, you could put a step-flange along the edge so the cab edge overlaps the patch flange creating a somewhat level surface. If you just can't weld it, you could try a product called "panel bond" (a kind of adhesive) to install the patch. Or rivet it in place if that's acceptable to you.


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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texczech #1575962 04/27/2025 11:58 AM
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Forgot to mention, it is a 1953 model. Would you be talking about putting a step flange on the truck, or the new panel? I have seen the "panel flanger" tools. Can they make the flange while going around the corner of the metal as well ?

texczech #1575963 04/27/2025 12:21 PM
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'Bolter
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I would think the step flange would go on the new panel such that it would overlap inside the truck metal. However, the panel flange tools I have seen (some I have) do not work well for going around the curved shape of the cab corner. The narrower the tool the better the chance but the more time it will take to work around the length of the overlap area.


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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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I would not use a lapped joint on a cab corner (or pretty much anywhere else, for that matter.)
A butt joint is much easier to get the panel and the original metal edges lined up. And you can deal with shrinkage of the welds.You may wind up with small valley along the weld line on a cab corner, but that's not hard to deal with.
Take a look at MP&C's excellent writeup on MIG welding sheet metal HERE


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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One could use glue with a say 1inch wide sheet metal backer
An expensive way to do it but it would work
Me I would just TIG it

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Cab corners are not structural. If I couldn't weld, I'd remove the rust inside and out and lay fiberglass on the inside and body filler on the outside.
I don't like to do things that way, but you didn't ask me that. smile
Besides that, a cab corner patch panel will very likely not fit anywhere near perfectly over your cab corner

Last edited by 52Carl; 04/30/2025 4:38 AM.

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Carl #1576280 04/30/2025 8:05 PM
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by 52Carl
Besides that, a cab corner patch panel will very likely not fit anywhere near perfectly over your cab corner
Definitely true. That would be like trying to nest two same diameter hemispheres together. They would have a significant amount of space between them at the center regardless of thickness of each.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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