| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,078 Posts1,056,021 Members48,433 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 43 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 43 | I am finishing up on a brake rebuild on my 53 Chevy 3100. Any time I have worked on these types of brakes before I expanded the shoes using the bottom adjuster until I felt a slight drag , bled the brakes and went on with it. However, after reading the 1952 supplement in my shop manual, it advises to expand the shoes until a heavy drag is achieved. Then, back off the adjuster 14 notches. The 14 notches seems excessive, but I feel compelled to follow factory instructions I wonder if other members have been following the instructions exactly. I would appreciate advice. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,485 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,485 | I've seen that before but have never followed the 14 notches scheme. For one thing, what is a "heavy drag?" Can't turn? Can barely turn? Like you, I think 14 notches is going to leave some loose shoes. Let's see what kind of responses you get. Might be interesting. For about 60 years I've adjusted until I feel a slight drag and the wheel stops spinning after making about one turn.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,987 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,987 | I adjust the star wheel to get as much drags as I can and still be able to turn the tire by hand, I then push the brake pedal to help center the brake shoes, I again turn the tire and it normally is more free than prior to pushing the brake peddle, I try to turn the tire in both directions and apply the brake several times to ensure that the shoes are centered and adjust the star wheel as needed to take up the slack. When I am satisfied that the shoes are in complete contact and as tight as I can get it and still turn the tire, I bleed the brakes. After a couple of spins of the tire, I re-adjust so there is a slight drag.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,279 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,279 | You also need to adjust the top center pin. That's the one that has the giant nut on it which holds it onto the backing plate. The Manual has instructions for that adjustment. You will obtain a much more consistent feel for what "slight drag" feels like once that pin has been adjusted correctly. Once that is done, 14 notches out from slight drag will be spot on. Without adjusting that center pin, you will just be guessing what is the correct number of notches is "right", but you will likely be wrong.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | |
| |
| |