I’ve already read Grigg's tech tip about big bolt wheels and have figured out I’m in for spending a lot to fix this issue. I started with RH-5s which I know are not a good idea and had them inspected and only one was possibly useable, so I have been looking for a solution for years. I currently have 19.5s on it so I can move it around. They definitely look too small, being 4” shorter than stock. I want the truck on the road by spring and I only see two choices.
1). Some type is split rim. I’m not familiar with options or costs so any input is appreciated.
2). Get some 22.5 rims and have the centers redone. The rims will cost me about $75 each and about the same to have them converted to the correct bolt pattern. That is over a thousand ($1050) at best and still no tires. New tires are several hundred dollars each.
Again, any input or experience on either option will be greatly appreciated. I’d really like to see this thing moving.
As you've already found out, there's no easy/cheap solution.
Years ago I got a set of rims that came off of a late 40's truck that were "2-piece Lock Ring" type 20" rims. I wanted them for a later 1956 1-1/2 ton truck I had at the time. In order to make them work on the later truck I had the center hole opened up to 5.25" (I think). Have you looked at any of the 1940's trucks to see if they have those rims? You might find one in a field and get it cheap just for the rims...
Have you contacted any of the custom wheel shops like Wheels Now?
Years ago I made several wheels by cutting the center out of the RH5 wheels and welding them to a 6" open center rim. And I welded some to 7.50x22.5 open center wheels. But new open center wheels have gotten crazy expensive. We have a brake drum lathe that we used to cut truck brake drums with and they got pretty true. If you find an old farm truck with usable wheels, you can probably by the whole truck for the cost of wheels. I think 1955 and later wheels are more plentiful than 54 and older. I still have some spacers somewhere that I had made to use the later wheels on the older hubs.
You can also just buy new wheels in either 19.5" with the smaller Chevy 10 bolt pattern, or 22.5" with the two ton 10 bolt pattern. I went the new route for my bus. yeah, it was $1800 for six wheels, but they're modern and I'll never have to spend the money again. Of course, my Enterprise is a family heirloom at this point, so it will be in the family for a long time yet which makes it easier to drop large coin once so that someday when my grandkids are driving it and it needs tires, they'll be easy to get.
I know you said the 19.5's look too small, and to each his own there. It's your truck, not mine. My '59 had 19.5's on it when I got it, and they look OK to me. Pics are in the gallery. But again, to each his own.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Tuts, those wheels look great on that truck but isn't a 6400 a larger body style, like my C60 versus a C30? 19.5s would look pretty small on my truck. NTM I would top out at 45mph!
"Thor" originally had 20 inch wheels and tires. After checking prices and availability, I opted to use the 19.5's. I have less than $800.00 in 7 wheels and 6 new radial tires (Used spare tire).
I understand the 45 mph, the current rear end a 4.88 - 1 ratio. It's good for 55 -60mph without winding it too tight , about 2800rpm.
Last edited by TUTS 59; 03/13/20251:32 PM. Reason: add images
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
Regular 10 lug 18 wheeler wheels and tires can be used- - - -just rotate the lug pattern halfway between the existing holes and drill the wheels for the smaller diameter pattern. A machine shop with a dividing head on a Bridgeport mill would be the most accurate method, but a center for an original widowmaker wheel would make a very acceptable drilling template as long as it's centered properly. Either chamfer the holes for lug-centered wheels, or make a spacer ring to press onto the hub for a hub-centered wheel with flat lug nuts. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The common 22.5 wheel off a modern ish semi truck has an 8.75 ish" center opening which is bigger than the the wheel circle of a 10x7.25 wheel like our trucks, so semi wheels won't work at least not that easily
The new wheels are $486 each, so that won’t happen. 22.5’s can have the centers replaced by a local machine shop. The 6400 is much bigger than the 4400 and tire height is VERY noticeable difference.
Regular 10 lug 18 wheeler wheels and tires can be used- - - -just rotate the lug pattern halfway between the existing holes and drill the wheels for the smaller diameter pattern. A machine shop with a dividing head on a Bridgeport mill would be the most accurate method, but a center for an original widowmaker wheel would make a very acceptable drilling template as long as it's centered properly. Either chamfer the holes for lug-centered wheels, or make a spacer ring to press onto the hub for a hub-centered wheel with flat lug nuts. Jerry
I was thinking about this Jerry. Do you think lug centric would be ok for my dump truck or are you thinking more for the 1/2 tons? I cut the center out of another junk 20" wheel I had. I love the idea of being able to use cheaper and plentiful 22.5 set ups. I'm in need of tires and I'm looking at $2k for replacement 20" tires, tubes and bibs. A whole lot of grunt work too. Thanks.
Back when I was driving over the road, lug centric wheels were the industry standard for a large majority of the big rigs. We ran either 20" tube type wheels, or 22.5" tubeless. If a set of duals on a rear axle could handle 8500 pounds at each hub, I doubt if your dump trick would have much of a chance of causing an overload. Steer axle max weight was 12K pounds for a pair of single wheels, and it was not uncommon to run heavier loads if the scales were closed. Of course, the lug studs on those rigs were 3/4" diameter, capable of holding up a bit more weight than the smaller diameter studs you'll find on a 5/10 lug setup like a 1 1/2 or 2 ton stovebolt chassis. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I’m now back to looking at wheels and tires for the 6400. When I got rid of the widow makers I got 8R19.5 all around from an RV so I could still roll it around. I don’t know a lot about tires and rims, so I have a few questions.
1) I’m thinking about using these rims and wonder if they would be limited to the same size tire. 19.5 has some taller tires, but they are also wider. Would it be possible to still use these rims for say, 265/70 R19.5 to get a taller tire.
2) The tires have been off for a while and I am wondering about the rings in the picture. Mostly where they go and if still needed with modern tires and rims. The rings on the back have 10 holes, the front have 5. Any help would be appreciated. I’m really not excited about the cost of going to 22.5 wheels and tires.
oldieoldie, I didn't have to search for wheels but I was able to find tires at a great price. I bought 4 Michelin 22.5" RV tires that were like new from a Craigslist add, $75 each, I bought 4 Firestone 10R 22.5 used virgin steer tires from a big truck shop at $65 each. I had 3 wheels sandblasted and painted them myself, I had 4 wheels blasted and powdercoated at the big truck shop, all together I have less than $1200 in tires and wheels. I agree that I was lucky not to buy any wheels, mine were pretty rusty but all hold air and the tire shop would not have mounted them if they were deemed unsafe. All seven of mine are 6 lug Budd, 22.5"
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Sounds good, but I need 10 bolt and around here, if you get anyone to sell them, 22.5 wheels are at least $75 ea (that is 7 for $525) + $75 each to make the centers the right size (another $525. ) then no one I could find would sell roadworthy 22.5 tires and new ones are a couple hundred dollars each, again times 7. Looks like well over $2,000 if I can get the parts. I don’t really like the look of 19.5 tires that are at least 4” shorter, but budget constraints are hitting. I just want to get it on the road at the moment. The tires on it are good enough to roll around, but would never pass state inspection.
Just a little more food for thought, the 10R 22.5's that I bought were from a school fleet, the tire shop has that contract and at a certain age or wear depth they replace the tires, the steering tires have to be virgin (non-re-caps) so at a certain point they come off. You might check around locally to see who does your school fleet.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy