The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Thread size for nut on a common toggle switch?

Is it 1/2 x 24? I am trying to drill out and tap the OE choke retainer in dash to thread onto a normal toggle switch.

I have a decent size tap set and can't find anything that fits. Best I can come up with is its 1/2 x 24?

Do you have a thread pitch gauge? Measuring the diameter and pitch would be the way to go. I believe the name for the 3/8-24 is a "3/8 SAE" or "3/8 NF" thread. There's also a 3/8-32, I believe.

www.ebay.com/itm/404091563747?

Jerry

Can't read anything on the pitch gauge. There are so few threads on the nut it's hard to tell what gauge fits on it.

Have you tried measuring the threads on the switch body? Should be more than enough threads to figure out the pitch/thread count.

Take switch to hardware store, see if you can find a nut that fits, this will give you the size... or take the nut that came with the swich and find a bolt that fits. Some stores have a threaded gauge plate hanging on a chain.

You may have a 15/32-32 thread. This is a standard panel nut size. Maybe consider epoxy choke retainer to toggle nut.

Search dash nut, dash switch face nut, bezel nut......they are mostly M12 thread, very near 15/32 SAE
May give you some ideas or options.

I guess this whole exercize is to give a good trimed look to the toggle bat handle stick out?

Yes. Don't use the choke anymore so I used that hole for the electric cutouts. Trying to make it look OE. I was able to get the knob looking good yesterday, but it needs the bezel

What are you showing us? I thought you were installing a "normal toggle switch"? "Able to get THE KNOB....? Toggle switches don't have knobs. Did I fall down and bump my head again?

What is meant by "electric cutouts" ?

HERE is a toggle switch with a nice bezel/nut. No choke retainer needed.

Marine applications my have better trim.

If you can get the original knob off, you could use a push/pull switch. Knob would hide the bezel nut, and retain original look.

OK. those kind of cutouts, thought it was some kind of sheet metal cut outs in the dash.

Probably easier to just use another original headlight switch donor. Listed now on Ebay $35 OBO free ship. With pigtail.Click

Cutouts = exhaust cutouts. I have them on a switch which I put into the choke hole. I would like to use the bezel nut so it looks the same as the other switches. I was able to get the black plastic knob onto the three position toggle so it looks better, but the bezel would look so much better.

I drilled the bezel out, and now need to find the tap for it.

Can you please post a pic of the knob on the toggle switch handle?

This is a toggle switch.

Do you see my previous post about using a headlight switch. that would solve all problems.

what are the exhaust cutouts for? To go faster or be loud?

Cutout are for enhancing the small block experience.

I posted a pic on page one. Looks better I just think the threaded bezel would look better.

Ok just never heard of a knob on a toggle switch. If it works, it works. Seemed like knob would hit dash when tilted.
Job done.

AAttached. I saw your idea on the headlight switch. If that can be a three way I may do that if this does not work. Switch is momentary to open or close cutouts.

Currently not hitting with knob on it. Right switch in pic.

OK, thought it was an ON/Off situation . I see it's On/Off/ON momentary. Push/Pull, like a headlight switch, would have to be wired as a reverse polarity switch and would not be momentary. Your idea is good.

Several good things on this PAGE Scroll down to the $6 bezel. It's a 15/32-32 thread!!!!!!!! that should be Yahtzee.

I think you are correct!!! Now to find a tap.

Not hard to find.

McMaster-Carr has one for $45

I'm sure there are other companies like Northern Tool or Grainger that will have one for less money. Probably even ebay.

But why not just use the bezels that bartanos found?

I thought I found you a trim nut to use. So you don't need a tap? I know you want to "re-tap" the choke retainer because it has the wrong threads for the toggle..
So I guess the nut I linked is a back up plan.
As Otto says, plenty of taps available.

In case you mess up, possible recovery parts:

CLICK

CLICK

Bartamos,

Thank you for giving him options that would be easier. It’s up to him if he wants to accept the course of action presented by members or not.

Some of us (pointing at myself) had to make mistakes to learn (example: you helping me with wiring 😀).

Again, thanks for helping him and hopefully he gets back to us on what worked/didn’t work to help future guys/gals.

Chris

thanks Chris, my 40 years of electro-mechanical design and 60 years of working on transportation modules makes me obsessed with fixing an issue and give ideas.

Example: Hey Ferris, don't forget you may have a die in your set to change the toggle threads to match the choke retainer threads.

or use a little different size and use a tap and die pair from your set to make them match. The problem with that is you have a thin retainer and a non fine thread will probably not provide enough threads.

Not to get off subject, but a lot of us get obsessed with figuring it all out because we care, but we can only guide the horse to water, they have to do the rest.

Ferris,

The group has laid out a few options/ideas, I’m curious your thoughts on how you think you should move forward. I would also ask that you come back to this thread and post what you have learned (both dos and don’ts) so others can search and find information if they are considering cutouts.

Your response might consist of everything from parts used to placement of controls, etc.

I wish you luck! If you have questions, we are here for you!

Chris