Hello, I am brand new tp Stovebolt. What a great web site! I just purchased my 2nd 1953 Chevy Truck a week ago. My first one I sold it 40 years ago. Darn it. My new 1953 has a casting # 3887004 on the block. Another number I found is : F40IB I was told by Jim Carter the motor is out of a 1955 and it's a 2nd Series. My question to anyone in the know is this. What clutch assembly kit will I need for it? It has been converted to 12 Volt as well. Any help is most appreciated with many thanks.
The Gang should be in shortly. Nice looking truck! I wonder if THIS TECH TIP will help some in identifying your truck. If it's a '53, I thought it'd be a 1st series and not a second. But more enlightened folks than me will know for sure. They may have more questions for you to help get your answers.
Welcome to Stovebolt.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
I just noticed your location. I also have a Decatur, Georgia address. I live in unincorporated Dekalb over in East Atlanta.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Wade, Welcome to Stovebolt! Some quick info on your engine data shows your reported casting number "3887004" is more likely to be "3837004", which identifies as a 1955-57 235.
Your "F401B" decodes as a 1957 engine:
F = Built at the Flint Plant 4 = April (build month) 01 = 1st day of April (build day of the month) B = Passenger car equipped with a Powerglide transmission and hydraulic lifter cam
Your question about what "What clutch assembly kit will I need for it?" is best asked in the Driveline forum.
Note: Your truck being converted to 12V is good to know. Also good to know is the 1957 engine would have been 12V to begin with. You will need to determine what flywheel you have to better ask questions about the needed clutch kit.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Wade, that engine casting number 3887004 doesn't come back to an engine block. Is that number on the side of the block down near the oil pan or possibly on the head?
The truck itself is a 1953, since it has the split windshield. A 1954 or later truck would have a one-piece windshield, and the grille would be much different. Peggy's link will help with that. [on edit] Actually THIS will help identify the year. Also, the serial number plate on the driver's door hinge panel should nail down the year of the cab (if the plate is original.) The 1953 Vehicle Infomation Kit has serial number info (look at pages 8 and 10)'
[on edit]Looks like Dan got things nailed down as far as the engine identification.
You need to be sure which flywheel/starter combination you have (see HERE, although the clutch should be common to earlier and later trucks. You just need to determine whether you have a 9-inch or 11-inch clutch. The flywheels are different for the two clutch diameters. A 9-inch clutch will have 6 bolts holding the pressure plate on, while the less common (and hard to find) 11-inch clutch has 9 bolts.
Last edited by klhansen; 03/27/20252:11 AM. Reason: Dan got there first
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Hey Wade. You have now reached the threshold of moderation. You'll posts will go straight thru without needing approval. Post away!!
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Hello eveyone, I am just learning how to reply to y"all on the forum. Thank you everyone for all the great information. This really helps me out and nails down what's next on my stovebolt.
Wade - In looking at the "Serial Number" plate picture you provided, the number stamped on the plate is not a correct 1953 Chevy Truck serial number per the information found in the 1953 Chevrolet Truck Data file mentioned by Kevin above and linked here again.
A 1953 Chevrolet 3100 truck serial number should look like: H53A0010095
This decodes as:
H = 3100 Series 1/2 ton truck 53 = Model Year A = The assembly plant which in this case identifies "Atlanta" (The Truck Data file shows all the assembly plant codes) 0010095 = the sequential truck serial number (beginning with the number 0010001) at the specified assembly plant. In this case this number would indicte the 95th truck off the assembly Atlanta assembly line for 1953.
Your stamped code "LBM63879" actual reads like a 1953 Chevy 3100 Truck 216 engine serial number (also detailed in the linked data file). It's possible that in a previous owners hands, the truck serial number plate was replaced for either an earlier engine change or to resolve some other titling issue. The plate is also attached to the truck via "pop rivets" which was not the way they were attached from the factory. All this leads us to believe that this is a replacement "serial number" plate and may or may not match the actual truck???
As the vehicle serial number is most likely used to identify the vehicle by a state issued title, it's really important that you look closely at your documentation to determine if you have a good clean and clear title of ownership. If the numbers don't match, you will need to work with your local DMV to figure out steps needed to resolve any dilemmas.
Not trying to rain on your parade, just offering information to help you identify your truck with the information you've provided.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Wade - Best way to determine when it was actually built for the 1957 model year is for you to provide us with the block casting date codes. You'll find those on the passenger side of the block just above and behind where the starter mounts. Post a picture and we can provide more details!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Dan was asking about a CAST, not a stamped number. Look farther to the left of that stamping, and down behind the starter. There will be a cast-in number consisting of a letter corresponding to the month of casting (A=JAN, B-Feb, etc.), two numerical digits designating the day of the month, and another number designating the last digit of the year. Further behind that will be "CON" and a number indicating the conveyor number at the plant.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Wade - What Kevin said. Below is a pic of the engine block "date casting code" on my recently acquired 261. Note its easily seen as the starter has been removed. Yours will be located in the same place.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I'm going with a C as the first character. Which would be March 26, 1957
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Wade, that's a mighty PURDY Truck! Welcome to the BOLT, there are plenty of folks near you. Be sure to check out the Southern Bolters, lots of good people there.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400 "The Book of Thor" Read the story in the DITY 1960 Chevrolet C10 "A Family Heirloom" Follow the story in the DITY Gallery '59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)
Come Bleed or Blister, something has got to give!!! | Living life in the SLOW lane
As for your clutch; sometimes the best solution is to just pull it apart and see what you’ve got. Measure and compare. Over this many years who know who did exactly what… a ‘57 would have been a 12V unless they converted backwards. So what transmission do you have and is it am open or enclosed driveshaft? BTW that Blue Flame Blue on the engine indicates to me it’s out of a car originally unless someone messed with that too. If it is a car 235 and hasn’t been messed with, it’ll have hydraulic lifters and be rated a few more horses.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
One more point. As much as I love the vintage dealers, if you can get your common stuff at the local flaps,it’s usually cheaper and no shipping as well as being able compare side by side (like your clutch parts) instead of buy and return with shipping again. At least shop by price comparison.
Larry Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY. If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.