The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Gas Tank Installation

Hey Everyone,

I'm getting ready to install the replacement, behind the seat gas tank in my 1953 3100. I have the tank, the small down pipe and the petcock. I also have a few questions....

1. Do I need to use teflon tape or PTFE tape on any of the connections? If so, all of the connections or specific ones?
2. I'm thinking that I need a flexible hose to make the transition from the petcock to the frame, then use hardline to near the fuel pump and finally hose to transition to the pump? Does this make sense? If not, what is a better arrangement?
3. Do I need a filter somewhere between the tank and the pump? I currently have one of the glass bowl sediment filters just before the carburetor. As I mentioned up front, it is a new tank, so rust is currently not an issue. However, I'm assuming the gas itself can have contaminants and the tank will eventually rust.

Please let me know what you think and if I've missed something. TIA.

I installed a new behind the seat fuel tank in my truck a year ago.

You do need a flexible hose to connect to the hard line from the petcock. When the truck was new it originally had one.

You can buy one from Jim Carter or other restoration suppliers for these vehicles.

I did not install a filter between the tank and the fuel pump. I figure it's a brand new tank and I'm only going to be putting fresh clean gas in it so that would probably be overkill. I also didn't want to cut all of my nice new clean fuel line.

I had the original fuel pump rebuilt it does have a small filter in it that I believe will catch whatever I need to catch.

I do not use teflon tape on any of my connections and I have had no leaks. I do, however use a permatex product called seal lock on fuel line threads

If you installed a new sender unit that has the fuel line connection, then the sock filter inside the tank is a plastic screen that will collapse, creating a no- fuel condition. Mine did. I replaced that sock with a stainless screen that was reinforced with a stainless coil to prevent collapse. Problem solved. I was 150 miles from home on the "Shake-down cruise" when it happened. New tank, new sender, rebuilt glass bowl pump, new lines, freshly rebuilt carb. Finally blew back through the line to the tank and flow resumed. Did it again a few days later. That's when I replaced that crummy sock.

The only fittings that will need a thread sealer are those that utilize pipe threads/tapered pipe threads/NPT-whatever you want to name them. Typically, a brass to brass or brass to steel pipe thread will seal pretty well without thread sealer due to the soft brass threads that conform to the mating thread. All other threads for liquids and gases such as flare, inverted flare, compression, banjo, etc. will NOT use a thread sealing compound or tape. Those fittings rely on a smooth close fitting TIGHT "seating" of metal to metal and normally one of those metals is designed to "crush" or "form" to make the seal.

1. I recommend some kind of sealant on the threads. Fuel rated tape is fine, thread sealant is fine, whatever fuel rated product you like.

Good note above: I was assuming NPT type tapered threads. If you have flare fittings, don't put any sealant on them or they won't seal properly

2. Yes, soft lines from the frame to the cab and frame to pump are needed for long term safety. You can buy premade ones from Jim Carter or Classic Industries (probably other places too).

3. I would put a filter in because it is easy to do now while the system is empty and clean. A new tank *shouldn't* need one, but over time a new tank will become an old tank and a filter will last until it clogs and you will be glad to have it then.