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| | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 | Yesterday, I noticed it seemed harder than normal to get the truck moving from a stop. Had to rev more and nothing happened until very top of pedal travel.
1951 truck with late 235/sm420. (Thus, I’m taking off in 2nd) Unknown miles on engine/trans/clutch, but would not shock me if the clutch is plumb worn out. I would say, up until yesterday, the clutch has always worked quite well since I’ve had it back on the road.
I need to check the free play adjustment. When I’ve done that in the past, it’s always seemed fine.
As for the testing the clutch itself….put in high gear with brake applied, slowly let out clutch, and see if it dies or stays running. Does that sound about right?
I’ve owned a lot of manual vehicles in my lifetime. Guess I’ve just been lucky to never have one with a bad clutch. New territory for me.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 | Update:
Should have walked out and checked the free play before I posted that. Have a definite lack of free play. No time today to crawl under and see if there’s any adjustment left.
Am I right in assuming that cab mounts and motor mounts might play into this equation? Geometry of clutch linkage? I do have reason to suspect at least some of the mounts are shot.
As for the clutch function test itself, I’d still like to hear some ideas on that for future reference.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,026 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,026 | Motor mounts might make a difference in clutch free play, but not cab mounts. The pedal shaft is mounted to the frame, so the cab position has no affect on clutch adjustment. Your clutch test sounds about right. I've had a clutch that wore out on a truck and could hammer the go-pedal in high gear going down the highway and have it slip. Of course drag racing the truck couldn't have had anything to do with that, right? 
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 | Good point. I do figure the cab mounts might make the pedal arm drag on the floorboard, however.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 3,379 Crusty Old Sarge | | Crusty Old Sarge Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 3,379 | Not to add confusion to the mix but, do you have any oil leaks that may have contaminated the clutch assembly? As for your test, that is how we would do it on the Military Trucks.
~ Craig 1958 Viking 4400"The Book of Thor"Read the story in the DITY1960 Chevrolet C10"A Family Heirloom"Follow the story in the DITY Gallery'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting) If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane | | | | | Joined: Dec 2024 Posts: 114 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2024 Posts: 114 | Best and easiest clutch test is to drive along in 3rd or 4th approx 2500 RPM, clutch fully engaged (pedal up) and increase throttle quickly. If RPM’s increase and speed does not; your clutch is ill.
Geoff
1955 2nd Series 3600 235 cid, 4 sp. - Current
1979 Chevy K10 350 cid 4 sp -Sold
1955 2nd Series Wide Window 283 cid 3 sp - Totaled
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 6,733 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 6,733 | I knew for certain Ol' Roy's clutch needed replacing and that the problem wasn't a worn out engine or bad carburetor when it wouldn't drive up a pair of ramps in the driveway.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 | Best and easiest clutch test is to drive along in 3rd or 4th approx 2500 RPM, clutch fully engaged (pedal up) and increase throttle quickly. If RPM’s increase and speed does not; your clutch is ill. Pretty sure the truck passed this test multiple times on my long drive yesterday. Maybe more of an adjustment problem then?
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 | Not to add confusion to the mix but, do you have any oil leaks that may have contaminated the clutch assembly? As for your test, that is how we would do it on the Military Trucks. No NEW oil leaks. They’re all ancient and scabbed over.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2024 Posts: 114 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2024 Posts: 114 | Best and easiest clutch test is to drive along in 3rd or 4th approx 2500 RPM, clutch fully engaged (pedal up) and increase throttle quickly. If RPM’s increase and speed does not; your clutch is ill. Pretty sure the truck passed this test multiple times on my long drive yesterday. Maybe more of an adjustment problem then? Yup, if it passed this then probably an adjustment issue.
Geoff
1955 2nd Series 3600 235 cid, 4 sp. - Current
1979 Chevy K10 350 cid 4 sp -Sold
1955 2nd Series Wide Window 283 cid 3 sp - Totaled
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