The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1951 Chevy 3100 torque tube question

hello I need advice for the torque tube removal and driveshaft on my 1951 Chevy 3100 I seem to have a leak around the flange and the ball housing and suggestions on disassembly and repair would be appreciated

thanks

If it is just leaking at the ball you should be okay to clean around it ,loosen the collar remove the 4 bolts holding the ball on then slide it back to replace the gaskets. The gaskets are also shims for the ball to move properly so you can take note of the shims on there already and would not hurt to read up on the adjustment .You can check your u joint while in there as you will have to undo the bolts to slip the gaskets over.

The ball needs to be installed separately from the torque tube to figure out the number of gaskets needed to get the right tension on the ball. The service manual says that you need to assemble it without the seal in the cover and check if the ball can be moved by hand. If it's too tight, add a gasket and too loose, remove a gasket. That's why the gasket kit includes 4 or 5 gaskets for the ball cover. I think you'd have to remove the crosssmember on a '51 (mine has one anyway) to get the torque tube out of the way to do that adjustment.

thanks I was trying to separate it without removing the crossmember my transmission is a 4 speed

I believe you can disconnect the u-joint without removing the crossmember, but I don't think you can get the torque tube up high enough to remove the ball without removing the crossmember.

I removed the transmission mount and cross member and unthreaded the collar on the shaft I tried to slide the ball housing back hut it seems very tight I do not want to pry it and damage it any suggestions

thanks

The collar has a couple washers and a cork seal inside, you may have to dig those out to get the ball housing off. It won't hurt to use a prybar to push it back, but be sure the tube is cleaned of accumulated gunk before trying that and use a block of wood to pad the front of the ball housing so you don't bend the edge.

Garry, It could be that ball hasn't been separated for quite some time, if ever??? You did remove the 4 bolts holding the ball retaining collar on like Kevinski said, yes? If this is the case, and as you say you've already unthreaded the rear collar nut, you are going to have to try a little gentle persuasion to break it free. I would try to grasp the narrow collar tube and try slight side to side and up and down motion to see if it will loosen up the ball and let it slide back.

Get back and let us know if that worked or not. BTW - If you can take and post a couple of pictures, it would help folks see what things look like and possible point out something being overlooked.

If you have a large pair of water pump pliers, try turning the ball on the tube. That will help loosen it up.

thanks for all your suggestions I will try that and provide pics !!

What are water pump pliers?

Never mind. I just looked it up. They're Channellocks. I've never heard them called water pump pliers before.

Water pump pliers was what my Dad called them in the 50's. Channellock is a brand name.

i broke it free and it spins now I have to get it to slide back

Garry, something to try is partially thread the rear collar nut back onto the tail of the ball. At least about 3 turns. Then you could use something like the pliers, closed just barely around the ball tube and resting against the lip of the collar nut to tap on the pliers face and gently drive back the ball. Let us know how it goes.

Old grease and dirt prevented mine from properly sliding rear ward. The outside of the tube really needs to be completely clean for the ball housing to slide all the way backward.

To add to what Gray_Ghost said, after degreasing, I took sandpaper and sanded it down to clean metal to make sure it was clean. Slid back easily after that.

Another thing: before you take the u-joint apart, be sure you have a jack or jackstand under the torque tube. It (the tube) will try to knock a hole in the floor or whatever is under it if you don't.

What TexasJim50 said. I have the proof on my forehead.

I guess by the time I was coming up, Channellock had already become the common name, sort of like Kleenex.

A 2x4 fit between the frame rails, under the torque tube works real well too!

I got everything apart and cleaned up. the cork gasket came out in pcs so I think that’s is where my leak was coming from
When I Lowered the tail shaft only an ounce or so came out do you think should change the okie seal ?
I measured the shim on the torque ball housing and it measures.040 thick . According to what I read I should install the ball with the new shims until I have a slight drag correct? After I have everything assembled should I add gear oil to to the ball housing the 4 speed transmission has a plug to the rear . Thanks for everyone’s help
Garry Rhine

About half a pint of the same oil the transmission runs is plenty to put into the ball housing. (90 weight mineral oil- - -NOT hypoid rear end lube) The U joint will splash it around enough to keep everything wet down and well lubed.

The amount of oil coming out the front of the driveshaft isn't indicative of the condition of the seal, which is to the rear of the front of the torque tube, before it starts expanding. The only real way to determine that is if the rear axle is overfilled.

When setting up the torque tube with shims do you do that with or without the gasket on the ball?

Thanks

No cork for adjustment

Kevinsi, I assume you were trying to link the instructions, but your attachment is broken.

Garry, HERE is the adjustment procedure from the shop manual.

Yes the link gave a fatal error and did not show up