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#1568290 01/18/2025 5:15 PM
Joined: Dec 2019
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Couple years ago when I started on this ‘37 GC, the grill emblem was plentiful at the usual suspects in both plain chrome or with the enameled accents. Today the reproduction is only available from a couple of places at all but only in chrome. What is anyone’s experience of trying to enamel like with jewelry at home? I can’t think of a way to be able to Sand or even etch to have a shot of paint adhering. Advice? Tips? I have not bought one yet but am starting to look when they throw one of those holiday specials.


Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
I would think that you could carefully tape over the chrome you wanted to stay chrome and lightly sandblast the areas you wanted to paint. It would be an effort, but worth it IMO. I just looked a grille emblems that Chevy's of the 40's has listed and the all chrome one just looks ---- plain. They have a pic of one that's painted, but listed as not available. They do say they're compiling a list of people who would want one for when and if they can get the painted grille emblem produced.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT
Joined: Sep 2009
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Larry - Just in case it may interest you, here's a link to a less expensive reproduction emblem Reproduction 1937 Grille Emblem that won't hurt the wallet quite as hard when you decide to make the attempt. smile
Attachments


~ Dan
1951 Chevy 3 window 3100
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"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"
1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver)
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'Bolter
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Dan, “less expensive” it’s always a matter of opinion! Lol the I&I reproduction one is the one I’m looking at for $25 off of 100 on special. That’s actually a rather bad picture and according to the rep is just chrome. Hindsight is usually 20/20 and I’m still kicking myself for not buying one when they were available for around 50 bucks for a chrome one or another 15 for the enameled one. Kevin, I absolutely agree plain chrome looks pretty washed out compared to the detailing of what it should be. Most of those vintage suppliers still stock the 38 or above emblem but not the 37 anymore. Chev of 40’s at least shows it. I think the painting process itself would be just paint and wipe back to leave the paint in the recessed areas, like I learned building model cars near 60 years ago. But getting the paint to stick…prep would be horrendous in the cracks and at these prices it’s not an experiment and redo for a 2” piece of ornamental die cast. This is why I was wondering about the jewelry style enameling, or possibly a powder coat but both also need prep.


Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,067
LOL, that picture that Dan posted from the I&I site is the exact one that Chevys of the 40s uses. Their price is $116. So it pays to shop around. Chevys of the 40s probably get theirs from I&I.

Larry, Jewelry style enameling might work without extensive prep, although I have very little experience with that. I assume you're talking about the powered ceramic enamel that's melted on the piece. I don't know if chrome would survive the temperature required. Might be worth some experimenting on something that's not valuable.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,803
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Check into some of the gunsmithing supply places like Midway USA or Brownell's. There's process called "Cerakote" that's used to put a very durable ceramic based finish on firearms that's available in a variety of colors, in both gloss and matte finishes. If you have a good gunsmith somewhere in your area, chances are he will be able to apply that type of finish for you. I've had several custom guns I've built finished that way, and it's tougher than woodpecker lips, and stays put under some pretty rough hunting conditions.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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'Bolter
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Here is a 1936 GMC radiator cap that I restored, I use rattle can satin black to paint the indented area's Could use any color I guess. Before and after pictures.
Attachments
100_5308.JPG (182.61 KB, 83 downloads)
20230114_142745.jpg (246.81 KB, 82 downloads)


1936 GMC T-14 1/2-Ton Pickup
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'Bolter
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Wow! nice work.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
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H
'Bolter
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Might consider “1Shot” if going with paint, (its is a high quality paint made for sign painters)…

Btw that GMC ornament looks great…

Chuck


Hank: 46 Chev 1/2ton shortbed
2023 Miata RF Club
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'Bolter
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Yes the radiator cap looks great. I have no doubt of my ability to do the incredibly anal detail work of painting the grill emblem with the red and blue to look amazing… but would it last is my quandary. After a couple of careful wash jobs is it going to lift and peel? That what I don’t want and the reason I asked you experienced forum guys. Hrl I’ll have to check it out. Appreciate the input.


Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
Joined: Oct 2021
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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You can do it. I painted the hubcaps on my '66 Toronado withthe toughest nail polish I could find (asked a chick I know what was the best) and took a cap into the store to match the color.

It doesn't come off in the wash. I considered clear coating it afterward but there's no need to it seems.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Renaissance Man
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Nail polish is a great idea. I work with a gal who keeps her nails painted and they remain flawless even though she is a full time beaver trapper!
For those who have no idea what is entailed in trapping beavers, everything in the beaver swamp is trying to kill you. Every step you take must be carefully chosen. You have to pull dams to restore the normal flow of the stream. It is grueling work, especially when a beaver weaves briars in the dam just for your enjoyment. Sometimes there will be a 40' long tree trunk for you to remove from the dam.
Beavers will cut down saplings leaving 2 foot high punji sticks with sharp points on them which will impale you if you trip and fall on them. After they cut the saplings, they flood the swamp with 3' of water to hide the punji sticks. There are venomous snakes, every variety of biting and stinging insects that you can think of, and every type of thorny vegetation that will leave you bloody trying to fight through them.
Then there are the beaver traps. They are big, heavy and will cause painful injury if you catch yourself in them.
Not exactly the best environment for pretty nails that last. I need to ask her what nail polish she uses.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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The brand my friend told me to use had the word "diamond" in it. I can't remember exactly but I'll ask her again.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Posts: 439
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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That’s a thought, logically though, natural nails are made of keratin and is porous, acrylic is an epoxy also porous and accepting of stains and paint. My wife was a nail tech for a while. . Knowing that chrome is not porous and needs to be sanded or etched for adhesion I agree it may be something that could work though if not abused with a high pressure washer.

Last edited by 37 GC; 01/22/2025 2:48 AM.

Larry
Old man᠁Old truck᠁neither one goes very fast. All you need in life is TIME, PATIENCE and MONEY.
If you are missing one component, you'll need an abundance of the others two.
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,299
G
'Bolter
'Bolter
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In the 70's a body shop told me the paint that was needed to stick to chrome was laquer. Paint technology has changed a lot since then.

Joined: Oct 2021
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Nail polish is lacquer.

They even make clear nail polish to topcoat the color base to make it last longer.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)

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