Good evening, well I broke down and installed a power steering upgrade to my 55 truck also put in a sm420 4 speed. I have a question about the hoses I have never hooked up a new power steering gear box to a pump before.
By just looking at it I can see it has a return ( no high pressure on both ends) my question is where does that hook to the gear box, inside or outside connection.I will post a picture when it finishes downloading.
Did the P/S kit have any literature with it? I would think there would be some kind of indication on the gearbox about the high pressure port and the return port.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Hello. No it did not. Looks like it had a little red under the black paint on the gear box but nothing by any means is clear for any information. it is a parts kit from Performance Online PSCK4759R.
They also sent two small brass fittings that look like they go inside of thr pressure line and two small O rings.
Mike - Is your power steering pump This One from POL??? The description on this page indicates the "Pressure port on gear box is 11/16"-18 flare" and the "Return Port on gear box is 5/8"-18 flare". The port sizing is your key to pressure VS non-pressure line connections.
If you look down further on that page, there is a braided line set that comes with fittings like what you describe, listed as Power Steering Conversion Hose Kit.... If you click on that part link, the lines and which ports they go to are described as:
Specs:
- High pressure hose is 11/16"-18 and 5/8"-18 inverted flare type fittings - High pressure hose is 20" long fitting to fitting and clocked 90 degrees - Low pressure hose is 5/8"-18 and open on opposite end to trim to length (3/8" dia) - Low pressure hose is 28" long from fitting to end (3/8"dia)
There is a non-braided line set that does not use/need the fittings as the line ends are already formed with the flared ends that aren't part of the braided line set.
Hope this may be of help.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Mike - Can you tell if the leak is from the line connection to the threaded fitting, or from where the fitting to the gear box port is??? You mentioned yours came with O-rings. Did you use an O-ring at the fitting to port connection or between the fitting and the line??? It's possible the O-ring tore or didn't seat properly. Can happen with O-rings that have been sitting around for a while.
These thoughts are only guesses on my part. It would help if you posted some pictures and better described what went where during install so folks can offer the best possible solutions.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
If the fitting depends on the O-ring to seal it, disassemble it, replace the O-ring and lubricate it, re-assemble. If the fitting is an inverted flare like brake lines, fuel lines, vacuum fittings, etc., disassemble the joint, clean and check the flare faces for splits, grit, etc. repair as needed and re-assemble. No tape or other thread sealer will correct those types of fittings if leaking.
Last edited by 78buckshot; 01/06/202511:38 PM.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Should have mentioned this earlier. Sometimes flared fittings can be a bit troublesome.
When you disconnect and reconnect your fittings to check for the issues mentioned by Buckshot, it often helps to tighten and loosen and retighten the fittings a few times to get the flares to seat and seal a leak. Helps to also use "flare nut" wrenches on the fitting nuts as they will cause less distortion when tightening.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Thank you for all the input. They are flare fittings I will inspect the end of the flare and try the tighten and loosen method. every thing else went fine can't wait to try my upgrades. 4 speed and power steering wow I won't know how to act.
Mike - That's horrible. I think just as much of a problem is the chewed up flared hose end brass seating surface face. It looks like someone really buggered that up too. Perhaps you can take the gear box back to point of purchase for a warranty claim??? Glad you at least found the leak source and can begin moving on.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Depending on the year of manufacture, it's also possible to have a metric/standard thread mismatch between the gearbox and the hose fittings, but the thread size and pitch is usually different enough to prevent assembly at all. Jerry
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