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#1566863 12/30/2024 7:10 PM
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 50
On the road again
On the road again
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 50
I would like any tips on refinishing my wood bed in my 54 3100.. wood is solid but weather worn, would like to refresh and redo the metal strips.

Joined: Oct 2021
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O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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If the wood is weather worn, I'd sand it first to get to "good wood". Then I'd use an exterior semi-opaque, oil based stain (black) like Cabot or similar that's used on barns. Apply the stain with a brush to all 6 sides of the boards (if removed). Keep applying it until it stops soaking into the wood. Once it stops soaking in, wipe off the wet stain sitting on the surface with the brush as you move to another area.

If you want to paint it, start by sanding it and then apply with a brush, a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine. Let that soak into the wood for a few weeks or months.

Then sand again to knock down the grain and paint with oil based primer. Let that dry and apply 2 or 3 coats of acrylic latex porch paint. It is made to be walked on and is extremely durable. Sherwin Williams / Duron or some other quality brand.

Do this to all 6 sides of the boards. It will last for years (or decades if the truck is stored indoors).


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Mar-K did a test of various finishes a few years back. Link The best finish they tested was black painted Behr over POR-15.

I used a solid black exterior oil-based stain that has held up well for the past couple of years. This post shows the product I used. I talked about application (some minor issues) a few posts above that.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 50
On the road again
On the road again
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 50
Thanks for the input, my follow up is about the best way to sand, I started but making very little progress....

Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
If you have a small DA sander, I'd use that. Even a Harbor Freight one link should work that long. You might consider removing the strips (maybe one or two at a time) so you can get right to the edge. The stuff I used is pretty thin, so should get under the strips if you don't remove them.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,833
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Offline
Joined: Oct 2021
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Depending on how rough the weathered boards are, I'd start with 60 grit and finish up with 100.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 50
On the road again
On the road again
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 50
Again, thank you for your input..... much appreciated

Joined: Nov 1995
Posts: 5,723
J
24601
24601
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Question for the OP -- How will you be using the truck? Do you plan on actually hauling stuff in the bed (thus needing a more durable finish) or are you wanting to show off the beautiful original (old, tight grained southern pine) wood in all its aged splendor?

If you want it to look as original, the durable finishes as described above are good.

If you want to show off the bed wood (but still use it from time to time), I like Otto's suggestion of linseed oil and turpentine. I've used that to finish some oak pieces I've made and it really makes the grain pop while giving a good durable finish that glows. Also gives it sort of an antique look. I've also used a rubbed polyurethane and that looks nice, too. The linseed/turp finish is more old school, though.

If you REALLY want to show off the wood, and highlight the patina of the smears of original finish, you could go all out Old School and do a good sanding job (by hand entirely) and then finish with about 10-20 coats of spar varnish (hand sanded between each coat). But that route is not recommended ... (you'll hate me). unless you are actually insane. smile

Some of the other wood workers may have other ideas, too.

I think, though, the real questions are how you are going to use the bed and how original do you want it to look.

Last thought -- the bedwood in my '49 is original and I keep it up with used motor oil mixed with a little diesel fuel. Keeps it nice and black!


~ John

A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.

1949 Chevrolet 3804
In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum
1973 IH 1310 Dump
1963 Kaiser M38A1
2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie"
2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)

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