The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1953 Throttle linkage

I am working on a ‘53 3800 pickup. Came from a fence row, had not run in forever. It has a newer 235 and the throttle linkage is missing. I am making my own, and am wondering about the bell crank that pivots on the stud on the block. The the holes in the arms be the same distance from the center? This will make the gas paddle travel the same distance as the throttle arm on the carburetor. I think maybe one of the two holes on the bell crank is closer to the pivot point, so that the gas pedal and throttle arm do not move 1:1. But I’m not sure which arm on the bell crank should have the hole closer to the center, and by how much? Does this make any sense, and does anyone have thoughts on this?

Read this:

http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/search/label/216%20235%20Throttle%20Pivot%20Positions

You could do what Dave suggest there if you can acquire an early linkage. That’s probably the best approach. (I’d have to go digging, but I think I might have most of an early one).

Otherwise, you are going to need to custom fabricobble a linkage rod. My 1951 truck has a later engine and was already fabricobbled for me. I can take a pic for some inspiration if you choose to do it that way.

Check your PM's. I may be able to help with some parts.

I found a Chevrolet throttle bell crank on ebay and from the image it appears to be equal lengths. It was for a 53 Belair.
Here is the listing.
Does not look too difficult use as a template.

The original GM# 3693371 lever for the accelerator mechanism is different than the passenger car one pictured in that ebay ad. Below is an extract from a FAM with the lever circled to show what the truck lever looks like. Hope this may be of some help.

Here's one I have. Turns out it has been modified. I got it with a 235 that was being sold with a 37 1/2 ton pickup and may have been adapted for it. The accelerator pedal pushrod has a ball end at the pedal, which is different than my 1951, which is pinned to the pedal. I included dimensions from the pivot to the rod connections (about 1.5" on both.) That one posted above for a 53 Belair has a drastically different angle between the lever arms, which makes a difference in how it works, changing the effective length of the lever arm.
From looking at the parts list, the accelerator pedal changed between 1952 and 1953, not sure how, but could have been the pedal to rod connection.

The one from the Belair will not work. My ‘52 with a ‘59 235 from a car came with one and it tended to stick. I got the proper linkage and bell crank for a ‘52 216, moved the bell crank pivot pin to the rear position (which was provided on the ‘59), and now it works like it should. 1960 and later engines did away with the second position. “Pre ‘68 Dave” shows how to add the rear position on his website. A link was provided in JW51 previous post.

My 2cents. With the quality of springs nowadays,I`d use 2 springs. That way if one breaks ,you`ll feel the resistance drop and
know somethings wrong ..but you can still drive.

RE throttle springs: For safety sake run an additional spring from the carburetor throttle arm to some convenient place that doesn't get real hot i.e. NOT the exhaust manifold studs. That way if the linkage clip breaks or a cotter pin falls out the throttle will close. If left to their own devices many a throttle will default to wide open. This is not good.

If you think mine are run to manifold studs , you are quite wrong. Oil pan

Guitplayer: I was not addressing your installation. Do your springs run from the throttle arm on the carburetor clear down to the oil pan? I couldn't tell from the photo. In any case that seems unnecessary. The oil filter mount or somewhere in that vicinity would do. Just to if the spring on the linkage or the linkage itself fails there is a backup.

The original setup connects the spring from the throttle linkage to a tab held in place by an oil pan screw.

no worries. same linkage I think. connect to what I`d call a cam.