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#1566240 12/22/2024 2:27 AM
Joined: Aug 2019
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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I have finally forfeited sheet metal work to someone more experienced, He has redone most everything I did . The problem he can’t seem to get the upper left belt line. It looks like it needs to go up 1/4 inch but there is no room left at the top,
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
Is that the original door? Was there any work done on the A pillar other than replacing the cowl panel? How is the door gap all the way around? It is possible to trim the edge of the door at the top if moving the front up makes it contact the opening. We'd need to know more to advise on a fix.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Well no the doors are not original but correct for a 1950.There was a lot of work done inner cowl brace both sides , rocker panel both sides inner kick panel both sides, rear corners inside and out, portions of front floor and rear floor and the three cab braces back and lower back section

Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
If he has access to a Factory Assembly Manual there’s a sheet of cab checking dimensions I think it’s Section 1 Sheet 1.07 that should be used. It looks like something may be off with the rocker installation.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 172
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 172
Ok thanks I will check

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Renaissance Man
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It looks like the gap at the leading edge the door is tight. Can you move it rearward? That might allow the door to be raised a 1/4".
Don't ask me why. I had the same problem on one of my trucks and moving the door back a smidge allowed me to raise the door a smidge.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52Carl #1566270 12/22/2024 7:38 PM
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'Bolter
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Thanks willing to try all options to get it right

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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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The door is too far forward and the top is too far in toward the center of the cab. I would move the top half of the door away from the cab, match the belt line front and rear. Then center the door forward/aft in the opening, adjust the lower right corner to the cab, when facing the door. Then, once all that is done, fit the cowl panel in to place.

Rick Brown #1566329 12/23/2024 10:20 PM
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'Bolter
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Also thanks I have passed this great information on ad well.

Rick Brown #1566332 12/23/2024 11:35 PM
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,065
I think Mark hit the nail on the head with his suggestion. Review the door alignment instructions in the service manual. It calls for a 1/8" to 3/16" gap along the front of the door and flush to 1/16" proud of the cowl panel. If it's too tight, it'll rub on the edge of the cowl when opened (or won't open at all.)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

Moderated by  klhansen 

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