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#1563962 11/23/2024 10:24 PM
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While my engine is out being rebuilt I thought I would have a look at some other things.

I’ve got a 2nd Series 1/2 ton. I watched a You Tube video from Brothers Trucks about upgrading tie rod end ball joints and thought “ Great Idea”.💡💡
My tie rod ends are the ball, cup, and spring type.

However I struck this
Left side steering arm has a ball fitting that is tapered and held in with a bolt. Right side is what I assume, a more normal pressed and peened ball fitting.

So, my new tie rod ball joints won’t fit on the left side.

No real problem as everything is in good order and can be re-used. Just out of pocket for some new ball joints.

Can anyone advise me what’s going on here. My guess is one of the steering arms has been replaced.

Is the left side one from a heavier duty truck?

I’ve tried to find out but can’t find any reliable info and this has stirred my curiosity.
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1955 2nd Series 1/2-ton
"Bolting in New Zealand"
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That truck is beautiful What was wrong with the engine? It looks like it just left the showroom.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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From what I can tell your left side (the 3738383 forging number in pic #3) is for a 3/4 -1 ton truck. That may explain the difference. You might be able to find a tie rod end that fits that. Or maybe someone has the correct steering arm for the left side. Here's a screen shot from the 1929-1957 Master Parts Catalog.
Like Otto said, that's a beautiful truck.
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Steering arm.jpg (31.53 KB, 85 downloads)


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Thankyou for that.
What I have is all re-usable, so I’ll take that road. It’s lasted this long so I bet it see’s me out.😄😄😄


1955 2nd Series 1/2-ton
"Bolting in New Zealand"
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Hi Otto

Thankyou. That paint job does kinda stand out. It was painted back in 1999 so it’s lasted well.
I consider it fortunate that the truck looks pretty good but there’s enough wear and tear that I don’t mind using it, parking it wherever and not worry about it.

It’s in great shape but no show queen.

Engine developed a knock in July.
Pulled it out and took it to our local engine rebuilder. Burnt valve and cracked head. Turned out the engine had a lot of wear and tear, and some dubious quality previous work done.

Anyway, it’s getting done properly now. Thank goodness for Rockauto.

Luckily I was able to source a complete engine which gave me a good crankshaft, head and some spares. Couldn’t use the block due to engine mounts not compatible otherwise I could have just swapped it.
It was physically possible to change the engine mounts but then I would have had to get it inspected and certified to be legal. Anyone here will tell you that can be a major PITA.

I was also able to source a second cylinder head in great shape so now I have a spare.

Getting both of those in NZ at the time I needed them was like winning the lottery. They ain’t common.

Long story but that’s what happened. Will get the engine back soon and they are doing a great job.


1955 2nd Series 1/2-ton
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Originally Posted by klhansen
From what I can tell your left side (the 3738383 forging number in pic #3) is for a 3/4 -1 ton truck.
GMC Master parts book also says that 3738383 is for a F025 (3/4 ton) or F035 (1 ton) front axle.

I'm a guy who broke two left side 1/2 ton steering arms in the 23 years & 120,000+ miles I drove my '57 1/2 ton GMC. Maybe your previous owner broke his and replaced it with the wrong part.

I'd also check the right side steering arm. Casting # 3711777 is the proper 1/2 ton arm. 3713017 is for 3/4 and 1 ton axles. If you have a 3/4 ton arm on the left and a 1/2 ton on the right and if the arms are different lengths, it could make for squirrely turning.

Last edited by Bill Hanlon; 11/24/2024 3:35 AM.

'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
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Does your truck have left hand drive or was it a ckd version? Did they even sell rhd TFs over there?


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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Hi Bill

Steering seems fine, right side has no part number.

Unless I grind off and press out the ball I won’t know if the hole is 1/2” or not on the right side arm.
At this stage I’m not going to do anything I don’t have to.

Steering used to be worse but I rebuilt the steering box which has made it much better. I’m ok with it and it passes our 6 monthly safety check with no problems.

Thanks for the input.


1955 2nd Series 1/2-ton
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Hi Otto

There’s plenty of RHD trucks of this vintage, Ford, Chevy, International. 3100’s were badged as 1300.

Just a guess but they are probably Canadian market trucks but there was a demand in Australia and NZ for these types of vehicles.
When I was a kid back in the 60’s there were a lot of US cars and trucks around, pretty much all RHD.


1955 2nd Series 1/2-ton
"Bolting in New Zealand"
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