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1951 1/2 ton short bed ls1 gen III eng any recomendations for acc drive kit? Need one with shortest distance from the block to rad.?? Thks!

If you want something production, the Corvette (C5) accessory drive is the shortest.

If you have an actual LS1 (many people use that term incorrectly and I don't know how you are applying it), then that is the drive it would have had.

As far as aftermarket accessory drives, I have only used the Holley ones, but they are very nice quality.

My preference is for factory parts where I can get them though, so my recommendation would be to look for the original Corvette parts.

Thanks, 2005 Tahoe is what it is out of...Holley is my next choice unless something else is better. Like the water pump style they use...be easier to replace if needed looks like.ì

Ok. For reference, the Tahoe was only available with 3 engines. If you know the VIN of the vehicle you pulled it out of, you can look it up.

The 8th digit of the vin would be:

V: LR4: 4.8L
T: LM7: 5.3L (non-flex)
Z: L59: 5.3L (flex fuel)

The LS1 accessories will mount to any of them and *most* other parts will match. The exhaust manifolds and fuel injectors are the biggest things that can give you issues if you buy LS1 parts for those engines.

Unfortunately, the only way to tell the 4.8L apart from the others is to pull the heads. The Flex vs Non-Flex have different injectors, but are otherwise the same.

Another thought for you: the LS4 accessory drive sets are a little hard to come by, but they are almost 3/4" closer to the block than even the LS1 drives.

You have to change the dampener, and they were only available in cars with transverse engines (think the impala or grand prix gxp), but if you can find one it might be what you want.

Look at March Performance Products.

Mine is the Z engine,,,

There's three basic accessory drives for the LS (not including the transverse engines)

Corvette - shortest but the alternator may hit the inner fender well of an AD
Fbody Camaro - about 3/4" longer than a Corvette, but low mounted alternator may hit the frame rail.
Truck/SUV - fits between the frame rails of an AD but is about 1.5" longer than the Corvette.

Ideally what you'd like to have is the length of the Corvette drive but in the truck/SUV configuration to fit between the frame rails. These guys say they can do that with aftermarket parts-

https://lsbrackets.com/

There's a few other things you can do to buy yourself some more room.

A GMC radiator will fit about 3/4" further into the radiator support than a Chevy, but you'll have to figure out what to do with the cross brace rods. Apicella Designs (https://apicelladesigns.com/) recently came out with a radiator for the Chevy ADs that pushes it further into the support, but I imagine they're pretty pricy.

The second thing is to push the engine as far against the stock firewall as possible. You could consider a bump-out on the firewall, at least on the passenger side, but you need to make it big enough so you can take off a valve cover if need be

For my '49 I took out the factory firewall entirely to make more room for a truck factory accessory drive, fan shroud and fan - it was a lot of work.

The kit from Vintage Air is just under 7 inches with the center section has a dip which looks like would help middle clearance down under the throtle area. I needed to move engine back but don't want to gap the firewall. If I mount the fan straight to the rad core with black pull straps they sent.... I'm real close to making it but rather mount the fan with a small metal shroud. Plan has been to mount fan on the condenser side. Using that modified inner structure kit with no rods that has helped my hood/fender gaps. Anyone used one of those complete cab w/doors that are being made?