Hey T-Doug . Well, your in for a real treat. I've attached some pics. Best advice I can give you is to install the center bow onto the front section and use punch to "re-peen" the front headliner section to the bow. If you take look at the bow, you will see where is was originally "pinched". You'll need to work the front section forward and behind the windshield seal "lip". It will be obvious once you get started. Also, it really helps to have a second set of hands.
Last edited by Dusty53; 11/11/202412:52 PM.
Ron - - Dusty53 1954 Chevy 3604 In the Gallery Forum "You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell." "They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
You should have the door windlace installed so you can slip the headliner behind it. It helps hold it in place while you get it worked forward. Also the windshield trim should just be loosely in place as the headliner gets tucked above it. Ron's suggestion of attaching the center bow to the front section is essential. I was actually surprised that I didn't have that much trouble with mine. I may be doing it again though as I had a windshield leak that softened the headliner at the front center and caused it to pull away from the windshield trim.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Clean those tracks out the best you can and spread them a bit. There are also spots where they've been flattened to hold the windlace in place. Use some rubber lube on the dovetail on the windlace also. My friend and I got a good workout installing my windlace. I actually trimmed the dovetail a bit with a dremel grinding wheel on the second one we did.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I don't think I'd use silicone grease. It'll be there forever and bad for painting contamination. I got some rubber lube from the local tire shop, and my friend suggested (and we used for the second side) glycerine based bubble solution his grandkids use. Both evaporate, leaving basically nothing behind.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
