I am inquiring about my options for painting my '52 3100. The aim of this project to to create a truck which is as close to how it came off of the assembly line in 1952. I haven't spoken to my painter yet about what paint to use or color. He does mostly base/clearcoat. I believe that he has done restorations using single stage, but isn't all that fond of it. He is very proficient with body and paint and has created some very impressive body and paint jobs. All I want is for it to look like new sheet metal right off of the assembly line and for the paint to look as close to original as possible. If he says can apply base/clearcoat that looks like original single stage, I'll be good with that. I welcome input from anyone familiar with whether there is a noticeable difference in appearance between single stage and base/clearcoat finishes. My next challenge is finding a color match for Forester green either way.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Check HERE for various manufacturer's paint codes for Forester Green.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I didn't do any recent research but from what I remember, GM was using Ditzler/PPG Alkyd Enamel. Not that I am suggesting using Alkyd Enamel but maybe he could recommend a product that appears similar. If he shoots base/clear with the thought of a modern finish, it won't look authentic. Maybe just an Acrylic Enamel, single stage, would look correct and still give you a durable finish.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
PPG's Acrylic Polyurethane Enamel AUE-300 might be a good single stage option. Polyurethane is supposed to be more durable than Acrylic Enamel. I used PPG ALK-200 Acrylic Modified Alkyd Enamel on my truck. Easy to shoot and pretty durable.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The PPG AU that I used on my fiberglass Chevrolet was very shiny/smooth, they call it self-gloss, it might be too smooth to duplicate the 1952 texture. Th AU has to be used with a catalyst, the acrylic enamel can be used with or without catalyst.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
This is what I used for my interior paint. Definitely not smooth has a slight orange peel look and feel. I’m going to assume that a good paint shop should be able to mix and tint!
I'm pretty happy with the PPG ALK-200 interior paint I got from Jim Carter, other than it being a shade darker than the original paint (I had it lightened up locally.) It has more of a semi-gloss finish than doyle1950's picture. It laid down nicely, probably the easiest application I've ever done.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
