The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline 1954 1/2-ton rear axle bearing

In reading through old postings, I came to the conclusion that I need R-1502-EL bearings to replace my GM111121 bearings. Before I shell out the $$ I need to be clear I'm ordering the correct parts. I measured the axle shaft diameter as 1.877" and the inside diameter of the axle housing as 2.77" and W (width) as 1.476" as the distance from the lip to the inside step. The NTN/Bower catalog lists the R-1502-EL as a custom "R" series bearing for automotive rear axle and has an ID 1.8722" and OD as 2.7818" and W (width) as 0.8750".

The truck is an old, abused hydra-matic that has leaked transmission fluid down into the rear axle (worn torque tube seal) and ruined the pinion and ring gears. I managed to obtain replacement parts. The axle bearings were destroyed. The old bearings were removed in pieces, so I need to know if the ID and OD of the bearing is press-in, tap-in or slip-in fit. I would appreciate knowing what others have experienced.

1.) The R-1502-EL bearing has no inner race (the hardened axle shaft becomes the inner race). So, scratch head, the shaft is 0.0048 larger (1.877 - 1.8722) than the bearing core or ID. Is this, okay? The seal goes behind the bearing against the axle hub so the bearing can't be a press fit on the axle shaft?

2.) Next the 1502-EL bearing OD is 0.0118 larger (2.7818 - 2.77) that the inside housing. Is this, okay?

3.) The combined width of seal (0.5") plus bearing (0.875") plus bearing retainer (0.06") is 1.435" total. I do not have the oil deflectors. There will be a gap of 0.04" (1.476" - 1.435"). Is this, okay?

I've read that the bearing retainer (basically a big washer) is needed to help remove the bearing from the housing to minimize damage by the removing tool. If that is true, then the bearing is a tap-in fit and seal is tap-in as well?

buoymaker, I haven't the experience with the rear axle bearings yet to answer the questions about fitment and installation, but did check to see what is being offered for replacements for the GM# 111121 bearings. You might check this offering FS-315 that the Filling Station lists as a direct replacement for the original GM# 111121 and alternate Hyatt OR1502.

On another note, I did find this listing that seems to indicate the R-1502-El is a compatible interchange. This same number is also listed for cross referenced as a replacement for the Hyatt C1502 (current designation for the original Hyatt OR1502 number). Anyhow, hope this might help answer part of your questions about fitment.

While I'm waiting on the parts to be delivered, I thought I would share some experiences looking for rear axle bearings. First off, some website FLAPS have terrible errors. Example: the business beginning with "O" lists OD as 61.12mm and ID as 61.12mm. One heck of a thin bearing. Next website beginning with "C" did not have dimensions listed so I asked. The response was OD of 2-3/4" and of ID 1-15/16". I could imagine someone with a folding carpenter's rule going out to the stockroom to open up a sealed package to measure. Totally useless information unless you are building a house. I apologize moderator for going off track.

Is the rear the same as a manual transmission truck. I have the rear bearings from the install kit .

I would not expect that anyone who sells wheel bearings for our trucks to have many people there who can come up with specific measurements for what they sell. SInce they do not manufacture anything which they sell, they rely on the company who does make them to make the correct parts.
I just buy them and hope for the best. It almost always works out well.

I honestly can't see that this “washer” is actually setting the clearance on the bearing, but please correct me if I’m wrong.

The only thing holding the axle bearing in is a press fit into the axle housing to the bearing retainer (washer) highlighted in red in the drawing, followed by the axle seal. The axle housing is machined with a shoulder for this washer to seat against preventing the bearing from going any further into the housing.

The axles float in the bearings with the clearance set by the block between the two axle shafts in the pumpkin. This block comes in different sizes to set this clearance.

Additionally, the shop manual doesn’t mention anything about setting a clearance when replacing the axle bearings or oil seals. In section 4-4.

When I removed and machined my axles to install ‘37 Buick inner bearing sleeves which match the OD of the original, I made a drawing of these dimensions . Here is that drawing with the washer highlighted in red.

Phil I looked at your axle work and you did a great job . I am at the point we’re I am replacing the rear wheel bearings and I have taken the bearing out on the drivers side along with the washer .The washer I noticed looks cone shaped and I am not sure that it is supposed to be like that or flat .This is not my post but related to and would like to know if anyone has imfo on the shape of the washer before I pound on it with a hammer

I took the passenger side bearing out today and the washer definitely has a cone shape to it so I am going to leave it be .I also notice that the first 5 inches from the backing plate is a bigger diameter than the rest of the rear section .In that section was some valuable gear oil ,it was all sparkling.Good thing I decided to change the bearings would have been hard to clean out that pay later dirt.Also on reassembling I think I will put some gear oil in the area behind the bearings as it will stay there being a larger diameter.

Here's the excerpt from the 1954 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual, Page 4-3. It's talking about the axle spacer or block that the spider gear shaft goes thru. The thicknesses you mentioned earlier in the thread, Carl, refer to the block, not any shims.
The 1948-1951 Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual says exactly the same thing.

The bearings and washers have nothing to do with the axle clearance.

3/4 and 1-ton trucks use a special snap or clip ring.

Cars and Corvette have a similar flat retainer GM 472521, but I believe they have a smaller diameter rear axle. Here is the Corvette forum on this subject (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c1-and-c2-corvettes/4429138-1954-rear-end-questions.html). Can't find them. Different idea on purpose.

I looked at a 1961 Master Parts List Trucks for GM 370251 and it said 1938-42 Comm., 1946-59 1/2 ton (exc. P/Trac.) and 1960-62 Ser.10. This many years and no reproductions and no used ones on the typical auction sites?

Could the cone-shaped retainer be originally flat and has become cone-shaped by using a bearing removal tool?

The washer does not appear to be distorted and is evenly shaped so I am thinking it is supposed to be that way .i took it out with a slide hammer with a L shaped end so if I distorted it I would think it would be uneven in shape

My bearings came in today. I cleaned the axles then polished the race part of the shaft with fine crocus cloth. I measured the shaft again and am reading 1.8740" with calipers. I checked with a micrometer and read 1.8745". The bearing specs are ID of 1.8722". After I got the bearing oriented on the shaft, it slipped on nicely. No loose motion. Same for the other shaft. I have 2 sets of shafts (2 long and 2 short) and unfortunately one was worn (1.8715") enough to hang a fingernail.

The bearings are going to require a bearing driver to get then inside the axle tube, but I don't want to install then yet till I decide on what to do about the bearing retainer.

In reading about the deflector, the original seals were leather, so some leaking was required. Using modern seals, we don't have that problem, so I don't think I'll need oil deflectors.

Kevinski, would you please measure the OD, ID, width (face-to-face) and thickness of you bearing retainer? Thanks.

Ok will have some pics in a few minutes

I looked closer at a axle that still has the leather seals in place and the washer may be flatter than mine as the space between the two is more.here are the pictures you asked for.The measurements are the best I can do with one hand so if you need a better measurement let me know .My rear axle is older than 54 and is Canadian made if that makes a difference,Kevin

GM calls the big washer (GM 370251) a "retainer - ring - bolt". I still can't get my head around that. So maybe, when driving the bearing home, it stops at the retainer. It basically stops the bearing from being driven further. If that is the case, then it is acting more like a spacer. Maybe it acts to position the outside end of leather seal to be in position underneath the deflector (5.815)? Captures dripping oil and lets it weep out to the face of the axle flange. The width of the leather seal may require a different retainer.

Maybe with a modern seal, we don't need a "retainer - ring - bolt".

I don’t see a deflector ,the washer/or retainer as it is called goes in first then the bearing it will stop as the axle tube has a ridge we’re it stops .Once the bearing is in the seal goes in . I am going out to see if I can get a better look / picture of the rear axle I have that has the leather seal and bearing still in place.You will need the retainer washer as it goes in first before the bearing .Off to take some more pictures .Do you have a picture of the deflector .

The washer is circled in red on the one photo the other photo shows washer bearing and seal removed but I am guessing the scribbled red area is what you call the deflector?

The retainer is like an oil reservoir, it helps keep the oil inside the bearing. With out it the rollers are open to the axle tube and when driving on an angle or around a turn the oil will drain out from the bearing.

Look at kevinski last pictures. You will see the small ridge the retainer goes against. The next picture you can see the retainer by the rollers.

Jimgmc. Your statement is what the Corvette club believes (see previous link). The thing is, GM did not call the big washer an oil retainer but a bearing retainer. I thought about NASCAR tracks with those high banks. If it was critical, I would think the inside axle tube "step" would be made higher so that no washer was needed.

Keninski. Attached picture is of my new Bower (Bower = USA, NTN = Asia) bearing on my axle shaft. The bearing is located where the roller bearings normally run (above the 2 marking pins). A seal (I don't have a leather seal) would be on the outside against the bearing. The deflector catches the dripping oil from the leather seal. A hole through the flange to the front allows oil to weep out onto the front of the flange.

I never noticed it before, but there's another "deflector" (5.392) that appears to be inboard of the bearing and retainer (5.816). The parts listing calls that deflector a "DEFLECTOR, axle housing oil".

Somewhere I read that the deflector (5.392) fits on the end of the axle tube. There is a lip on the end on the axle tube and it's my guess that this is where the part goes, if comments I have read are true. So, oil from the leather seal is deflected out (5.392) into the other deflector (5.818) on the inner axle flange. It just occurred to me that leather seals can dry out (stop sealing), if there is no oil to keep them wet. So, the bearing retainer acts as a reservoir (kudos to Corvette Club and Klhansen) and a bearing retainer-spacer.

I read that 1965 was the last year of automotive leather and felt seals. Some companies had already phased them out before 1965. Once the stock of old seals was used up, everyone was forced to go to the modern seal (elastomer, silicon etc.).

The way I look at it, with a modern seal we don't need deflectors, retainers or a reservoir of oil. Looking at my axle shafts I noticed a narrow wear area (recessed ring) probably were the old-style seals contacted the shaft. Removing the retainer and driving the bearing in further then installing the modern seal behind it will allow better sealing on the axle shaft that was not previously worn by the old-style seals.

Upon further review of the manual and your astute observations therin, I stand corrected and have deleted my misinformation to clean up this thread.

In case someone is interested and while I have this stuff apart .The older to newer seals are also a little bit different so they may not be in the same position if you are replacing a leather seal.The metal seal is the leather one ,the green is a seal I had in my truck and the red one is a new seal bought last year.Kevin

Back on the road again. Thought I would add a little more to finish this topic up. The bearings drove (bearing driver) in tightly but consistently i.e., no binding.
Problem one:
I already knew there was a small gouge at the end of the axle tube so when I installed the oil seals, so I added sealant (made for this situation) to the outside of the seal. I know that some new seals already have this sealant coating, but my gouge was too deep. I'm so accustomed to slightly taping a seal to get it started then use the seal driver to finish up, but this seal did not want to start. I measured the roundness and yes it was slightly oval, and I knew I didn't hit it hard enough to deform the seal. It was a National 414045 made in Mexico. The other National seal was completely round but a piece of seal elastomer had somehow stuck in a place it shouldn't be (the seal machine probably needed cleaning). I decided against using these seals. I happened to have purchased a second set of generic seals (Auto Extra) in the past (O'Reily) 414045 made in Taiwan. These fit well.
Problem two:
I installed the axles, placed the C-Clips on the shaft ends then pulled the shafts back, installed the spacer block (GM 370217) and center pin. I pushed the axles back in and took a measurement of axle end to spacer distance. OMG, both sides are much wider than 0.014", of what the manual says is maximum. I had other 1954 pumpkin parts for spares, so I started measuring. A C-Clip wears at the axle slot (at the axle end) and on the opposite side against the gear. I decide to flip them when I reinstalled. The center pin had some very small amount of wear, so I used a pin that had the least wear. The spacer block had some problem wear from the end of the axle running against it. I needed a new spacer. I purchased a NOS spacer (GM 372515), that has a finished surface on all the faces, that is used for adjusting axle end play. I ended up using the spacer face with distance that measured 1.168". Everything is now a nice snug fit. I'm sure that a few 100 miles these parts will wear-in a bit, but it will still be inside the tolerance.
Final comment:
While looking at the construction of my bad oil seal it dawned on me that if you have a lathe or precision cutter, you may be able make a spacer (big washer discussed earlier) if you wanted to use the old-style leather seals.