I'm installing my front axle and was wondering if anyone had measurements on which way the leaf springs are installed. I wanted to make sure I install them correctly. I had the springs rebuilt and one end has the smooth bushing and the other has the threaded bushing. I know the threaded end goes to the front with a shackle and the other end is mounted with one large bolt. The leaf spring has a short and long end from the centering pin. About 18 inches and 20 inches. My old pictures looks like the long end goes to the front, but my springs have the smooth bushing on that end and not the threaded bushing for the shackle. Just checking to see if the spring shop rebuilt my spring correctly before a install the front axle. Maybe I worry too much. Thanks for any input.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
My spring book shows the short end goes to the front.
Typically, the front of the spring (A) is the Short End (SE) and the rear (B) is the Long End (LE). C is the free arch and D is the spring pack thickness.
If you want to check your springs here are the measurements. A=17, B=19, C=4 and D=1.487
"jimgmc" - Thank you for your response. I now have peace of mind. I'll get my front axle and springs installed as soon as my U-bolts show up in the mail.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!
Thanks for that image. I am playing the frame game with a 1/2t and a 3/4t and the way you have the frame on the jack stands and HFT dolly really is a neat idea.
1946 Chevy 3/4-ton "Let's the games begin" Story in the DITY Gallery What if the Hokey Pokey really is what its all about?
... the way you have the frame on the jack stands and HFT dolly really is a neat idea.
That is a cool idea, but I'd like to see a little more support under the edges of the jack stands. Probably OK for the weight of a frame, but I'd be leery of putting much more weight on them.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Wish I had pix of the frame I welded up to achieve the same (except in steel), I made a steel rectangle that held the front 2 jack stands and another for the rear 2. Then used 1-5/8” strut to link the front and rear rectangles.. casters were on the frames. I then strapped the frame down with allthread rod, and later with the body and drive train in was able to winch/pull it on a trailer to deliver to the race shop for sway bar fabrication. You could achieve the same in wood…….
Got those furniture dollies from Harbor Freight for about $13 each. Just using them for the frame and getting the front and rear axles installed. I agree, probably not strong enough for more than that, but makes moving the frame around the garage easier. I also purchased some auto dollies I'll use once I get wheels and tires back on and before I install the engine.
~ John in Utah 1946 1/2Ton w/4-speed manual transmission w/1960 235 engine Here We Go Follow in his DITY Bay
- If you think about it, it has been one year ago today!