The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Non-starting issues - 57 3100 stomp start

A little background. Months ago the truck would not start properly. Cranks fine. With the starter engaged, it would fire and run. Release the floor button, engine died immediately. Jumped battery to coil. Started and ran great. Not getting 12v through the ignition switch I assumed. I planned on changing the switch, but I could not find one with the same terminal as what was in the truck. Checked wires, connectors, all seemed fine. No changes made, but the truck healed itself and fires immediately without the jumper. Didn't make any sense, but if it ain't broke..... No problems for months. Went to start it yesterday. Cranks great...but it won't start. Shades of the jumper wire gremlin? Pulled the jumper wire out of the glove box, clipped to the battery and clipped to the coil. Bad move! Dead short! Welded the alligator clip and burned my fingers! Nothing changed or touch since it was last parked. Removed the hot wire on the coil. Coil not grounding except when the points are closed. Hot wire from coil now has continuity to ground. So, before tearing into it, I am now assuming I have a bad ignition switch based on the previous gremlin. I will check for loose wires, bad connections, etc. but I am thinking 'switch'. What do you folks think? It was fine when I parked it. No rats, mice, etc. So, I am looking for a switch, and I cannot find one with the same connector layout. So, the next question. Does this look like the original switch? I would prefer not to change the switch to one that has the start position. I like the originality of the stomp switch. So, again, is this an original switch? I have not been able to find a replacement switch with these connectors. Anyone know of a source? Guidance, advice and even ridicule appreciated. Thanks!

Your post is a little hard to read. Adding a little white space would sure help.
Anyway, your ignition switch does look like an original as far as the terminal layout. I've attached the diagram from a 1955 Second Series shop manual, which should be the same. It looks like they do have a start position, but that wouldn't be used with a stomp starter (no connection to the Start terminal.)

I see a few ignition switches on eBay (search for 1957 Chevy Truck Ignition Switch) that may be original style. I'm finding only universal style ignition switches from the usual vendors. You could use one of those as long as it has an accessory position. You might also post an ad in the swap meet here to see if another 'Bolter could help you with a replacement switch.

Some of the reproductions require a jumper and it sounds like you issue needs it. Even though it looks like original it is not functioning like it

most likely the switch you are currently testing this functions this way.

In start position start and ing2 are the only ones hot ( the starter and coil power)

In Run only ACC is hot and ing2 is no power state (everything running) But if your coil is on ing2 its not going to run
Jumper ACC to ing2 and your issue will be solved.


Now some versions of reproductions will leave both ACC / ING2 hot when in RUN and only ing2 and start hot when in START. and ACC only when in ACC position.
This call all be tested with a volt meter or continuity checking.

But in either case the coil wire needs to be in a position that is always hot in start or run positions

The "run" wire to the coil should be thru the coil resistor. On the later (55.2) stomp starter switches there's a small terminal for the jumper wire to the coil (bypasses the resistor.) See Pic. That second wire is hot only when the stomp starter switch is depressed. With that setup, the engine should start and run as long as the starter switch is depressed, but would die as soon as you let the starter pedal return unless the ignition switch is in the run position, or if the "run" terminal doesn't have power, which might be what's happening in your case. You can troubleshoot your switch with a multimeter or powered test light. If you don't get continuity between the battery and run terminals with the key in the on position, then the switch is the problem.

What he said. I missed the stomp start in big bold letters.

Thank you all for your input. Definitely something to sort out. I will persevere. Thanks again!

Lets get this truck wired correctly, THEN we will troubleshoot which component is the problem if there still is a problem.

55.2 went to 12V. The points need to be protected during run but the starter needs full voltage during crank. So Chevy had a "bypass" system. About 4 different bypasses depending on motor and year and car or truck, electric solenoid or foot stomp. In 55.2-59 there were several different ignition switches used on trucks and a few more for cars. Regardless of 6 or V8 they all have a bypass/ballast resistor. Use only an externally resisted coil. The guys have covered this so cutting to the chase...........

1. For 6 cyl stomp start truck, you had, and have, the wrong ignition switch. But that's OK, finding the correct ORIGINAL ON/OFF switch is almost impossible. There are several switches like the one you show, which is called a V8 switch because V8's did not use stomp start. They had solenoids and used a spring loaded key position "START" to energize the solenoid.... and some may have a push button.

2. There are "Universal" ON/OFF switches if you want that or you can wire your switch. Here is an example of a ubiversal igniyion switch.

To wire what you have... you will only use OFF (key vertical) and ON (key at first position CW)
WIRE...
Battery pos to ignition switch "BAT" terminal.
Ignition switch IGN 1/ACC terminal to one side of ballast resistor.
Other side of ballast resistor to coil positive.
Starter stomp switch side terminal to coil positive.
Coil neg to distributor.
NO OTHER wires for now.

Let us know the test start result. You have said on several posts you cleaned and inspected wires and connections so...... I suggest you DO NOT do any wiring after wiring per above until you get suggestions on how to troubleshoot properly using a few jumpers and/or meter. Get rid of any extra wires/jumpers flying around/connected to, this ignition system.

If the problem is actually the key switch and you want to find an OEM style, then do the "farmer-fix" I did under the same situation with my 57 6400 grain truck. I simply used a 110v ON-OFF flip switch. On... or off... until I found a suitable replacement. Just wire all your "switch on" stuff together. ( ON-OFF-ON, if you need separate ACC function.)
Jethro.
ps. Use the same toggle position you use for your lights in the house... up is on, down is off. Saves battery and points. I know.