Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
|
| | Forums66 Topics128,052 Posts1,055,727 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
|
| THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
|
| | | Joined: Jun 2021 Posts: 99 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2021 Posts: 99 | I have added turn signals, radio, heater motor, interior lights and electric fuel pump to my truck. Each of those accessories adds a wire to either the ignition, battery or accessory terminals on my universal ignition switch. Each of those added items has an inline fuse. I plan (hope) to soon add an OD solenoid and maybe a back up light.
I've been working on mechanical parts of my truck. If I ever get those how I want them, then I may move on to revise my electrics. I think something like running a larger gage single wire from one or more of the ignition switch terminals to a fuse block for each terminal then running my accessories from those would work.
Does that plan seem reasonable? Is there something better?
Thanks!
1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270, 3-spd Saginaw with BW OD, 3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10, Front Disc Brakes Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978 Follow in the DITY | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,272 | Virginia Beach? I heard that was a great place to be from...
I would use relays to power the heater, and the fuel pump to relieve the ignition switch of having to carry such a heavy load.
Use the ignition switch to power the solenoids. Solenoid energizing wires draw very low amperage which your ignition switch will appreciate.
There are combination fuse/relay panels available to do this and they keep everything neat and all in on place, which makes troubleshooting easier.
My son did that on his hotrod and it is the ticket.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2021 Posts: 99 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2021 Posts: 99 | I thought of relays. I've looked at them on the internet. Most seem to have multiple terminals but do not show a diagram that tells what each terminal does. I think that I would want one that has only one output which I could use to power a panel or fuse box to then power whatever I have on that panel.
I can do more research on that.
Thanks!
1950 GMC 100 Panel Truck, 1958 270, 3-spd Saginaw with BW OD, 3.73 12 Bolt Differential from a 1966 C10, Front Disc Brakes Bought it in pieces 9-1976, driving since 6-1978 Follow in the DITY | | | | | Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,446 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2022 Posts: 2,446 | Robert: Most relays used in aftermarket (and some manufacturers) electrical systems are "Bosch" type relays. Also known as cube relays. Most have 5 pins, but some only have 4. The pins are usually numbered 85, 86, 30, 87 and 87a.
Some have additional features. I have a some cube relays with built in automotive fuse holders that are looking for a project.
Call me in the morning (you have my number) to talk relays.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
| | |
|
|
