The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Dual fuel tanks on a 66.

I am not regretting keeping the tank behind the seat, but it would be nice to carry some more fuel. In my college days I had a 69 Ford with dual tanks. There was a lever beside the seat and then a switch for the gauge.

My 66 has the hole in the floor for the hand valve.

Finding the tank is easy.
Figuring out a fill method will be more difficult on a step, but doable.
Figuring out switching from one tank to another is easy.

Finding the valve is another story. I am not finding any leads on the valve??

I added fuel tanks to a 72 K10 that I had. Built saddle tanks with a fill neck in the front of the wheel well and stuck a Campbells soup can over the neck and cap to keep the crud off.

Here is a solenoid operated switchover valve from Summit Racing.

And here is a manual valve from Amazon (probably available other places as well - try a marine store like West Marine.)
That last valve was just like I the one I used on the K10.

You’ll need the high pressure in tank fuel pump too, won’t you? I’m happy with the 21 gal tank I put on my 66 c10. I used a marine SS filler neck in the left rear fender. It’s working out well so far. I bought mine in a local boat shop. Since then I’ve seen them on car web sites as well.

I was poking around on my lunch and see I can buy a 6 post valve which would give me in from both tanks, out to sniper, return from sniper, and out to both tanks. All will go through electric HP fuel pump.

Then all I need is the in cab switch which would be the 70's 80s style GM.

I realized needing a return is probably not going to work with a manual valve.

Here is the vlave.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D7VP4K6...;sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9ocXBfc2hhcmVk

I have been poking around more lately. I think this will do it as long as there is a decent way to wire it. The 70's style switch only has three posts, so I am not sure if can work and look good too?

THIS ONE HAS THE WIRE PIGTAIL AND A SWITCH

THIS SWITCH IS THE 70'S STYLE

And then get the side fill tank found here

You don't want the 70s version of the switch you want 1987 and up.
The 70s were intermittent and had a middle position. its why it says depress fully. because you could be in a now power situation.
They fixed this issue 1987 and up.

part number d7089c i believe

Be careful with the selector valve. I don't see a pressure rating on that one.

Older TBI units ran a much lower pressure at the selector valve because they drew through it rather than pushing through it.

Depending on how you are doing the rest of your system, you could blow up the valve.

TBI units came out in '87, fuel pump in tank(s), ran 9 - 13 psi. That was at the end of the body style, dual tanks & switch valves could be a pain, much simpler with single tank.

If you have in-tank pumps, there's really no need for a selector valve, as long as there's a check valve built into the pumps. All that would be needed is a switch to select the pump and a tee tying the two tank lines together, then a single line to the carb or TBI unit.
[on edit] you'd need a 3 port valve on the fuel return line to keep from overfilling a tank. It wouldn't need a very high pressure rating.

My plan was to use the HP fuel pump that came with my sniper for both tanks. It likes to push but I think I can place it where the pulling is at a minimum.

There should be little to no PSI at the selector valve because it will be on the low PSI side of the pump. Return line will have some psi, but I don't think that will be an issue.

As far as the switch goes..... Wouldn't a guy want a momentary switch so the selector valve won's keep trying to move to one tank once it is there?

For the switch question it depends on the valve type, model etc. Some of those require a constant voltage to keep the selector in "Aux" tank position. A spring will defaults to "Main" tank in a no power situation. I would clarify with vendor/model on how that operates.

Excellent point. I would have never thought of that. So basically ones like you describe will default to the main tank every time rig is shut off.

Close: it is on the main tank *when the ignition is off*, but as soon as you turn the ignition back on, the power from the switch flips it back to aux (if the switch is in thr aux position).