The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop No cranking with the plugs installed

I have a rebuilt 216 with .030 oversize rings and new aluminum pistons. The valve timing and adjustments were checked and are correct. I spun the oil pump through the distributor hole and had flow to the rockers. Re installed the distributor and insured it is in the proper position with the 5 o:clock wire to number one cylinder. The engine spins with no plugs, valves all work, Distributor spins, points open and close. Starter has new brushes commutator clean. Another starter with no rebuild does the same thing. Battery charged with 675 CCA. Belt to newly installed alternator and water pump loose to remove any tension.

This engine ran well two years ago but has sat on a stand in my garage since then and is connected to my run stand operation. It has oil and water in their systems.

What do you guys think is the problem?

Can you turn it over by hand with the plugs installed?

When you had the starter torn down, was there any evidence of the field and armature rubbing? if the shaft bushings are worn, it may drag pretty hard. Is the battery rated at 675CCA or did it load test at that?

I haven't tried turning it over bt hand, but have with a screwdriver on the flywheel.

The battery I am using is a new interstate marine rated at 675cca

Try installing the plugs but leave the plug wires off. Earlier this year, I was working on an engine with the initial timing too far advanced. The starter couldn't turn it over.

I have the distributor cap and wires off.

What's the battery terminal voltage while trying to crank with the plugs in? It sounds like you've got battery trouble, not a tight engine. What amperage did you load test the battery?
Jerry

I just cranked the engine with two plugs in it won't crank with more than that. My inline ammeter pegged and I had a 1 volt drop in voltage. I am leaning toward the starter requiring too much power to spin.

Weak starter, weak battery (or both), tight engine. Those are your choices.
Now you need a strategy to figure out which of these is the culprit.
Is your battery 6 volt or 12 volt? If it is 6 volt, turn off everything electrical and power the starter with a fresh 12 volt battery to see if it turns over. 12 volts won't hurt a good 6 volt starter.
If the 12 volt battery turns the engine over, take your 6 volt battery to someone who knows how to load test it.
If none of this works, you probably have a tight engine. You can start a 216 with a hand crank. They came with one new.

Hook a chain to it and pull it down the road. Built a 55 chevy years ago and it was just to tight. Pulled it down the road and got it fired up. That sucker was tight for couple weeks.

It is 12 volt to a six volt starter, Alternator belt has been loosened to reduce tightness from alternator and water pump. This engine was rebuilt and started and ran a couple years ago. Been sitting since then. Starter spins engine fine when plugs are out.

Battery is new, been charged on 2 amps to bring it up to full charge after cranking the engine.

I'd suggest a series voltage drop test, but it would take a week of pounding a keyboard to describe the procedure and I'd still be misunderstood. Find the high resistance connection in the starting circuit, (or the funky battery cable) or find someone who knows how to do that test.
Jerry

Just curios if you are able to turn the engine over by hand with a socket wrench on the crankshaft or even by turning the crankshaft with the fanbelt.

Ut should be a cinch with the plugs out and pretty easy to do with the plugs in.

OK, here it is. After contacting NASA and their team of Electrical engineers and a Native American Shaman, I quit using jumper cables and used actual battery cables. The engine spins like a gyroscope.

One more lesson re-learned.

"I love it when a plan comes together!" Good on ya for finding the source of the problem!
Jerry

😎👍

Those jumper cables probably got pretty hot too. LOL

Yep