The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Putting it all back together

I'm planning to spend a lot of time on the wire wheel cleaning up the old original rusty nuts and bolts when I start re-assembling inner-outer fenders, bumpers, bed, etc.

Outside of purchasing new bolt sets, anybody have a better way?

Thanks

If you can afford it get yourself a blast cabinet. Best money i have spent. Dave

Go to the bulk food store and buy 10 bucks worth of citric acid mix a tablespoon up with a ice cream pail of warm water let it sit overnight with your items in there ,you should do a quick wire brush to get the loose stuff off but as long as the bolts are not greasy they should come out rust free .

A vibrating tumbler and some ceramic deburring media would do a nice job.

I used Evaporust to remove the rust, then a rock tumbler with sandblast media in it, and then zinc plated the hardware I was planning on reusing. But for the fenders and most of the front clip, I used new bolts.

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll check out a vibrating tumbler today at Harbor Freight. I'll let you know

Besides zinc plating, is there anything else you can do for the threads?

If the threads are messed up, you can either chase them with a die, or just toss that bolt into the scrap bin and use a new one. I went with new bolts so I didn't have to fight with binding nuts. The fender to cowl bolts are hard enough to get to without saddling myself with having to use a wrench to spin the nut down ALL the way.

Another thing to consider, and I’m not an engineer, is bolt stretch, possibly better defined as stress or fatigue. I realize high torque is what stretches them and in the case of fender attachment might not involve high torque, but it’s worth considering getting new unused bolts.

I enjoy wire wheeling on a bench grinder on a pedestal. I also enjoy the Easter Egg Hunt looking for slung parts in the shop.
For some reason I have a special attachment to everything about these old trucks and like to re-use as many original fasteners as I can.
I soak small parts in mineral spirits and use a toothbrush to knock the oil and road filth of up them, then wire wheel them to remove rust.
I then wipe them down with acetone or lacquer thinner before priming and painting.

I saved as many of the clutch head and other light hardware as possible soaking for hours to days using Costco purchased lemon juice(cheapest). Maybe some light sanding to minimize the pitting look. Then a toothbrush to finish. I have lung issues, and that seemed to be the mildest de-rusting chemical I've found. The rest of the structural hardware for me was so far gone that a full stainless nut-bolt-screw kit is being used. Much cheaper and easier than single purchases. With a sandblasting on the exposed parts of stainless to make it look like old cleaned up standard hardware.
If it is NOT major structural, I'd say a de-greasing then de-rusting, as long as the nuts aren't too loose on the bolts.

I second evaporust, seems to have no fumes or toxic-ness ang it works! Just wire,wheel after and reinstall. A blasted part will rust asap.
On I project I set up a nickel electroplate dip, worked awesome

Chuck

Speaking of clutch head bolts and screws, I have found a way to fix a buggered up one by putting it in a vise with copper inserts to protect the threads and hit the top of the head with a body hammer to mash the buggers back in place.
As long as I can tighten it back into place with enough force to hold, and it looks right, I'm good with it. I doubt that I'll ever have to take the vast majority of them back out ever again.

Thanks for all the advice. Good stuff. 52Carl you prime and paint the bolt head and threads?

I don't worry about getting primer on the threads. Paint on top of primer can be a pain.

After cleaning/de-rusting, I've shot rattle can flat clear on bolt heads to keep the rust from developing again but maintaining the natural look. Mostly for very visible bolt/screw heads.