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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,104 Posts1,056,201 Members48,436 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 67 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Sep 2000 Posts: 67 | I am looking into buying a MIG welder. I have looked at the different models from Lincoln, Hobart, and Miller. The specs on them are quite similar, but I can't decide whether to go with the 110 or 220 volt models. My primary use will be patch panels and small fabrication like motor mounts. I do have access to a stick welder for heavy stuff. I am leaning towards the 220v models since I will have the option of slightly heavier material, but will I sacrifice the ability to easily weld sheetmetal? Am I also correct in thinking that a 220v one will be a little easier on the light bill? Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
Aaron | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 194 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 194 | Go with the 220 volt. Gives you much more versatility. You will be able to weld patch panels very well, provided you use the correct heat range, wire speed and wire size. You usually can weld thicker metals with the 220 volt better that the 110 volt. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 Extreme Gabster | | Extreme Gabster Joined: Oct 2001 Posts: 3,458 | Hi, I have a Lincoln Migpac 135 and it works great for everything I can do with it. It runs off 120 but requires a 20A circuit. Thin stuff doesn't require much heat. It handles up to 1/4" easily with one pass, too. It has four voltage settings, and infinite feed speed settings. The only thing I wish it had was more intermediate voltage settings. I really couldn't see going to 220V unless you are doing production welding. You get a higher duty cycle with 220 but you pay more for it. Power savings will not be significant unless you weld daily, which is unlikely for most people. If you have a stick welder I say just go for the 120. It is a lot more portable because you can use it with a regular extension cord (12 gauge or better) and you can take it to someone else's garage if you need to. But if you find a good deal on a 220, go for it.
Paint & Body Shop moderator A lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic. | | | | | Joined: May 2001 Posts: 46 Member | | Member Joined: May 2001 Posts: 46 | i agree with afu45, the 220 vlt is much more versitile. Also i have a compressor that can run 120 or 220.I was told that running it on 220 will be easier on the light bill.  So i'm guessing it would be similiar for the welders. I've got the same welder as 4onthefloor for home use.Very good unit and if anything it's under rated on it's capacities. Kevin | | | | | Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 1970 Posts: 365 | We have several welders at work--one 110V Miller 130, one Miller 200 (220V), and my favorite--a Miller CTS250 (3 phase).
The 110V unit was intended for and works great for sheet metal welding. We use it on bin floors in combines. It really should have .023 wire, but they run .030 wire to do heavier stuff beyond the welder's capacity. I see a lot of 'cold' welds with this unit but it is the operator's fault, not the machine's.
My shop does not have 3 phase in it, so I would prefer the Miller 200 there. It has all the power I require. I see ads in different catalogs about Hobart's 230, which looks like a pretty good deal. This is probably the most versatile welder we have next to the big 3 phase welder.
I have a Lincoln 225 AC buzz box that is OK for heavy stuff. I am saving up for a Miller 200 or Hobart 230. Has anyone used a HTP welder; are they any good? They don't seem to be as pricey as Miller/Hobart but is the quality comparable? | | |
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