The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Is there a illustration for adjusting huck brake starwheel

there are 2 starwheel openings per backing plate.
i can't get any rotation from either starwheel, sitting 75 years with only 3000 miles i guess its to be expected they are seized up.
for example, which direction does the starwheel turn to back off the shoe using the front opening front left wheel? top away or top toward you?
thx 4 any help.

PM sent

Wrenchguy,
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To LOOSEN brakes, the star wheels need to be rotated COUNTER CLOCKWISE relative to the cylinder as if you're looking at them from the ends.

To TIGHTEN brakes, the star wheels need to be rotated CLOCKWISE

You asked for a diagram.

Atr the top of the driveline forum it says Tech Tips. There is a tip for adjusting Huck Brakes with pictures.

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...adjustment-guide-huck-brakes#Post1499231

Nice drawing Otto. Thanks for pointing it out.

That drawing actually came from John Milliman. Glad Otto remembered it and posted the link.

shoe adjustment = starwheel lefty loosey - righty tighty relative to end of cylinder makes perfect common sense. i believe i got it.
thx.

Do NOT break off the stars from the star wheel. With a straw on the aerosol can, squirt some penetrating oil into the threads of the adjuster. You'll have to estimate where it is. Work it back and forth until it comes loose. Then rotate it in the loosen direction. if you can't get them loose try pulling the drum off the shoes without loosening the adjustment. With only 3,000 miles on the drums this should be at least possible if not easy. With worn drums it's all but impossible to get the drums off without loosening the adjustment. I have done it but don't remember exactly how. You don't want to have to figure this out.

It sat in museum 10 years, i knew the shoes been dragging the drums ever since i got it loaded couple weeks ago. I haven't touched the brake pedal yet. Starwheels were stuck solid. It would barely roll so i been driving it on gravel farm path oiling the drums/shoes/everything thru the adjustment openings. Brake drum temp came down to 10 degrees of ambient from a high of 70 degrees above ambient. They were hot. So with all this oiling i tried starwheels 2day but wanted to make sure which way to turn 'em. I got 3 of the 4 starwheels backing off with only a 4 degree increase of drum temp from ambient with that 1 shoe dragging. I'm doing this cause i got to get the drums off to rebuild the cylinders. If i can't turn the wheel/tire jacked up i'm not gonna get the drum off. Right? thx.

Be cautious about using penetrating oil around brake parts. Petroleum based penetrants and brake rubber parts like wheel cylinder cups don't play well together. It also contaminates brake linings. Silicone type penetrants will be a little safer than using something like PB Blaster. Using a little bit of persuasion from an electric heat gun or a Propane torch, with the brake drums removed, plus the silicone penetrant is by far the best way to free up any sort of sticky brake hardware.
Jerry

Agree that petroleum based solvents are bad on rubber brake parts and linings. I'm also thinking a propane torch wouldn't help rubber parts much either. But the OP is planning on rebuilding things anyway, so whatever it takes should be the process.
With Bendix brakes, all the brake parts can be disconnected from the backing plate to allow stuck drums to be removed. Unbolt the wheel cylinders and the anchor bolt and cut the heads off the two brake shoe hold-down pins will free up the shoes and other parts to come out with the drums. The only issue with that is that the axle flanges on the rear brakes, and the parking brake cable would hang things up.

This is a 4400, rear loosened up easy using positive action of the 5/8" bolt head adjuster mechanism. thx.