I have a rebuilt 235 and I wanted to know if anyone ever mounted a 235 engine by attaching the stand to the bell housing? I saw some pictures on line where folks modified the stand to support the engine. Some looked viable others looked like Darwin Award candidates in work. The stand I have is heavy duty and will hold the 235 as I previously had my old 216 mounted on it and was able to move it around. That was without the bell housing though.
Deegs, I haven't attempted to do that, but would think it might not be a great idea since the bell housing is going to push the weight of the engine forward on your stand. Could lead to a serious imbalance condition and a toppled over engine ain't no fun! That being said, how about a picture of your existing stand and what you are considering (if any) for modifications to support your 235 with the bell housing mounted?
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I am not planning to modify my stand, I just saw some pics on line where some people did make modifications to their stand. I think I will just leave it on the pallet and remove the harmonic balance so I can install the front motor mount. I thought using the stand would be easier but it looks like it is more work so no thanks.
Good choice! Most of today's engine stands weren't designed for our 6 cylinder engines. Such stands need to be modified to provide the necessary support to prevent the imbalance conditions I mentioned and most importantly keep everything safe. Hope your balancer pull and front mount install goes easy.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I have a couple of modified stands that are safe for stovebolt engines, and I just bought one from Harbor Freight that's rated for 1500 pounds, and has folding legs long enough to extend well beyond the front of a stovebolt with the bellhousing attached. When not in use, it will fit into a corner of the shop. It also has a worm gear box that allows the engine to be turned to any convenient angle for assembly or maintenance. A little over $300.00 for a one time purchase of a safe, sturdy engine stand is CHEAP health insurance!
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Saw this simple and intuitive idea in a YouTube video. Just use a sturdy piece of bar stock to widen the block. This is what I'm going to do when I finally get mine onto a stand.
RBs36, the rear of the block isn't the issue. I currently have a 216 on a stand and it fits fine with the pivot just above the center of the crank so it's not so top-heavy and can be turned over without killing me. The main issue is the front of the stand as well as the distance to the front support. Definitely DO NOT put a straight six on a 3 wheel stand. At a minimum a 4 wheel stand should be used. I modified mine to widen the stance on the rear and it also has a slightly longer center bar that puts the front wheels farther forward. No issues with a fully assembled engine on it.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Leverage problems arise when the flywheel, clutch, and bell housing are bolted on. That adds nearly a foot to the length of the engine assembly and makes it prone to tip over forward if a stand doesn't have very long legs. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
What Jerry said. That extra weight forward also adds to the stress on the joint between the upright and base. If that's marginal, then the joint may break.
I added about a foot to the beam that extends between the front and rear wheels on mine. This was one end of the rotisserie I built to mount my cab and frame on for body work and painting. That beam was the length of the frame when I used the rotisserie for that.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Guys, should have read more before I replied. I see now that's what you were discussion. I made a knee jerk post assuming the issue was something else. Apologies. But it is kind of a good idea.
