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Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1,362
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Long story made short. The key to the '51 truck is hidden/temporarily lost in the shop, can't find it (but will in time I trust). So, rather than having a new key made I'm thinking just wire in a simple on/off switch at the back of the ignition switch until the original key turns up. Just checked my inventory and all I have is a new 120v SPST light switch. Any reason this won't work?

On the good news front, a decades-long delayed shop cleaning and organizing effort is underway.

Thanks, RonR


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,192
Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,192
The switch should work OK. Switch doesn't care if it's AC or DC.

Last edited by Gord&Fran; 09/04/2024 7:15 PM.

Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,987
7
'Bolter
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The light switch should be able to handle 10 - 15 amps.


1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 557
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 557
Any on/off switch would work
.. Shucks, you could just twist up the ends of a hot wire to the coil and stomp the starter... crude but effective. (I'm an old farmer. I've seen or done it all. Whatever it takes to get back to the barn.)


~~ Jethro
1954 3100
Back to Life
In the Dity Gallery
1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
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'Bolter
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Jethro, I did do that very thing to move the truck from the hay shed to the shop. Jumped from the starter to the coil. Cranks fine, another reason to admire the foot activated starter. Only problem is a lot of stuff doesn’t work. The switch is ziptied to the steering column, just need to wind myself down under the dash and make two connections.

I’m kinda liking how it’s looking. My farm and logging roots are showing!

RonR
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Last edited by moparguy; 09/05/2024 12:53 AM.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,450
B
'Bolter
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Just don't use a dimmer switch. wink


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
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Posts: 4,485
Originally Posted by moparguy
On the good news front, a decades-long delayed shop cleaning and organizing effort is underway.

Ron, I sincerely hope that goes well for you. In my case anytime I go about a cleaning / organizing effort or project two things happen: I find things I knew I had but couldn't locate and two...my re-organization work means I can't find much of anything anymore. It seems to be worse at this age, also.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,060
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,060
Like you, Ron, my battery cover, the first item I bought from another stovebolter, is still MIA. It’s SOMEWHERE in the garage, but hasn’t bubbled to the top yet. Bit I haven’t had time yet to pick the garage up, turn it upside down and shake.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Well, it won’t be long now until the keys float to the top. The 20 amp light switch is installed and working. I suspect the universe will chuckle as the inevitable happens and I find keys in the last place I look.

The only minor very slight concern is their’s a feedback in the system. If the engine is at high idle, it continues to run with the temporary switch flipped off. Slow it to a low idle and the alternator drops out and it dies. I can live with that for a while.

RonR


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,485
I've had that happen before. One way around it is by using a solenoid to eliminate feedback but we're heading off into the weeds and making this much more complex than it needs to be. Better to find the keys, I'd say.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 2,450
B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by moparguy
I suspect the universe will chuckle as the inevitable happens and I find keys in the last place I look. RonR

That's better than to continue looking after you find them.

Originally Posted by moparguy
The only minor very slight concern is their’s a feedback in the system. If the engine is at high idle, it continues to run with the temporary switch flipped off. Slow it to a low idle and the alternator drops out and it dies. I can live with that for a while. RonR

Sounds like a job for a 12 volt LED.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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