BD, If you don’t mind I’d like to add a couple questions about vacuum wiper motors. This is on a Trico unit and I could not find a model number.
1. What are those little rectangle bolts called? They are 1/8th wide X 3/16 long with rounded ends. You can see a couple in one of your pictures on the cover plate.
Edit: I found an answer for my second question. Finken Service co.
Thanks Don
Last edited by 2-Ton; 08/15/202412:46 PM.
1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck "The Flag Pole" In the Stovebolt Gallery 1946 2-Ton grain truck 1946 3/4-ton pickup, 1953 1-ton pickup 1957 1-ton flatbed dually, 1954 Pontiac Straight Eight Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
I did find this bolt for the fuel pump for vacuum. That and the manifold? The 3rd for clean air? Also found an original length wiper hose. Its cracked and unusable but bent for fitment.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Thanks. But this is confusing and I don`t know why. What would rotating it do? I am not getting something here. There are 4 ports on this motor. Is that odd? One is plugged with a red plug and others are open. What needs to be so I can check to see if it works. No manuals show this and no help on line. So???
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
BD, Just a note here that your topic is probably best continued in the Interiors forum as that the most on-topic place for your wiper motor question, so it’s been moved there for further discussion and help.
That being said, I may have found some helpful info, but since I’m working from my phone right now it will have to wait until tomorrow when I can get back to my laptop. Hope to help you clear some of the murky waters soon.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Thanks. I put it in the engine part cause when I searched the stovebolt on the topic, that s where all the threads were.
This is as close I as can find. Lot of confusion on using the washer function that makes it difficult. Mine did not have that. This cropped photo is what I was looking for. Check valve is what is plugged on mine. The open port in the middle by the looks of it never had anything on it and the diagram shows that as well. That my wiper motor there. My question is can I use the vacuum there at the fuel pump? Then return at the manifold?
Last edited by Guitplayer; 08/16/20241:55 AM.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
This should help someone. Real simple. Vacuum pump would mean carb or fuel pump vacuum. Take pics!! Here are some pics of the engine and showing the hanging hose for the manifold and what looks like a hard line turning into rubber from the fuel pump.
Last edited by Guitplayer; 08/16/20242:27 AM.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Don't take it apart. There is only one person on the planet who has the correct gaskets for them, but he needs them for his wiper restoration business. If you find that yours is weak, contact him. He goes by Wiperman and will make yours run like new.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
The Wiperman 132 Calvert Ave West Babylon, NY 11704 (631)587-3332 M-F 9-5 EST http://www.wiperman.com/
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I have rebuilt four or five of them for '37, I was making a mirror image set so both wipers parked in the center. It took several different motors to get the parts needed. With that said, I cut my own gaskets using the originals as patterns. It's not all that hard if you take your time and have a sharp knife. To get them apart, I used a brass tube pinched down to form an oval that fit over the screw heads. You can replace them with standard screws since they are a standard thread, just can't remember just what size they were. A couple of the ones I pulled apart had usable gaskets, I soaked them in oil to soften them. The motor worked just fine after a cleaning and oiling with all the original parts. A light polish on the inside helped with slow speed, as mine have twist valves to limit the vacuum for speed control.
White motor assembly grease works really good to soften the seals inside. If it's not totally dried out, some light oil will also help, just put some down the inlet and outlet tubes and work the motor back and forth easy. If you can find a small vacuum pump, working on you bench is a lot easier then monkeying around in the overhead of the truck.
I have wipers. No problems. I used some transmission fluid as a lube. Worked up a vent tube with copper water line. Flared the inside. vacuum from the fuel pump bolt. Run hose and lubed the wiper barrels so they would turn. Worked right off.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
One thing of note ,with the vacuum open w/o hose at intake , truck ran but a little rough. I fiqure it was running rich until I put the hose on to seal up vacuum. Before, I crimped that steel tube.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Vacuum motor runs fine. One speed and returns to zero when you turn it off. My problem is when I added the wiper arms. With them off I cannot hold the cam from turning on the outside with my fingers but when I add the wipers it moves them about half way. Will return back to 0 when off. Is there too much pressure on the wiper to glass? I have the glass with water on it to test. Can that spring be adjusted?
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
My vacuum wiper did the same thing. After soaking with ATF, it seemed to work but adding the arms stopped it in it’s tracks. I suspect the seals are a bit worn and your wiper motor needs a rebuild. I sent mine to the WiperMan, and now it works on dry glass!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I have taken the arm apart and removed the spring and drilled a new hole in the metal where one end of the spring attaches. This results in less tension on the windshield. The spring which they put in these aftermarket wiper arms are not up to specs. Too strong or just a tad too short.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I think I would agree. having these other two with the same wiper arm, I can feel the resistance on the older aftermarket ones. One is really less and the others are less. No doubt this motor needs a rebuild. Trying to fiqure if I can at the moment. Cost wise. But you can look at the pic, both arms are bent inward from pressure.
I might as an experiment, take a set from another truck that feels less resistance to the glass and put those on the vacuum motor.
Last edited by Guitplayer; 08/26/20241:25 AM.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Closer observation I can see a difference in the pressure on the glass. My black 58 has what I would guess are the original arms or at least a early repop. The arms are not bent and are thicker and will not bend like the current reproductions. Arms on my 59 are bent inward. Bowed from pressure.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
You can always just switch the arms from the 58 to see if it makes any difference.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Yep, thats the plan. QUOTE; I might as an experiment, take a set from another truck that feels less resistance to the glass and put those on the vacuum motor.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Update. I ordered a new motor from the wiperman. Works great but now my engine has developed a sputtering backfire. Cranks and idles fine, adding throttle constant it backfires. Any clues?
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
On my old 235 there is a hard line running from the Vacuum pump(Fuel pump) to the engine and runs along the valve cover, then turns rubber again to the firewall. Looks original, is it?
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
It's possible that the vacuum part of the fuel pump has a broken diaphragm and is causing a vacuum leak and engine backfire. I would test to be sure it's OK.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thanks. Vacuum not contained in the fuel pump. Hollow mounting bolt pulls vacuum from the engine crank case...? Everything good. i just wondering if that setup with the hard line is original. I could eliminate alot of rubber hose.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
So you don't have a combo fuel/vacuum pump? Like pictured. The top part pumps fuel, and the bottom pump boosts vacuum to wiper motors, etc.
I've never seen a vacuum line connected to the crankcase. Not sure what that would accomplish.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
This bolt mounts the fuel pump and has a hose fitting. It was on my truck originally Wipers work. IDK. I just go with what I have. I do not have that fuel pump
Last edited by Guitplayer; 09/13/202411:10 AM.
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
The red-marked port needs to stay open to the atmosphere. All it does is draw air from inside the cab as the vacuum powers the flapper inside the wiper motor. You definitely DO NOT need the hollow bolt or the hard line to the pump. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The red-marked port needs to stay open to the atmosphere. All it does is draw air from inside the cab as the vacuum powers the flapper inside the wiper motor. You definitely DO NOT need the hollow bolt or the hard line to the pump. Jerry
Originally they would have a rubber hose running from the firewall to the fuel pump diaphragm portion? Thats alot of hose. My motor has stamped on the ports backside... VT and MAN. Fresh air comes from the green line (port furthest passenger side.) Red in the pic above is for the washer
~ BD. "You won't find me in an old folks home" Pioneer Florida Cracker 1958 Apache Stepside 1958 Apache 1/2 ton Panel 1959 Apache 1/2 ton Panel
So aside from buying a different fuel pump with a diaphragm , where else can I pull vacuum from?
The fitting in the middle of the intake manifold- - - -the same place millions of stovebolts have used since the 1930s.
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!