I'm trying to decide whether I want to paint my 66 C10 back to factory (saddle two-tone) or leave her with the patina she has now, and I figured the condition of her current paint is a good place to start. I don't think her paint was ever stripped and she's had at least 5 full paint jobs. The paint flakes in places and leaves your gloves blue-white in others. If the paint is recoverable enough for preservation, what would be the best way to prep her for that?
There's nothing to "preserve". Either drive it as-is and let it continue to age, flake, and peel, or strip it to the metal and paint the entire truck properly.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Jacob, Welcome back from a fellow MO Bolter! Your question basically comes down to what do you want the truck to look like when finished??? If you like the patina, you can remove the loose/flaking and chalky paint with a good power wash and scrub down and then coat it with one of the currently available "patina preservers" which provides a coating to basically seal and preserve how it looks today. If you want a nice factory style paint job, then you must do the whole strip down, body work/paint prep and full repaint process.
Either way, it's your truck and your choice. What ever makes you happiest!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
With 5 previous coats of paint that are checkered and peeling, It's going to be pretty hard to stop that. But if you're happy with how it looks, Dan's suggestion of a "patina preserver" might work for a while. I'm not familiar with them.
If it's a nice straight truck other than the paint peeling, then I'd lean toward stripping it and starting fresh. But it's your truck.
Welcome to the Stovebolt Forums.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I agree with Kevin. Unless you get under those rusty areas, they will continue to rust and flake off. “Patina Preserver” may slow the process but it won’t stop it. Assuming that you showing us the worst of it, you may consider removing the flaking paint/bondo/rust in those areas, replacing any rusted thru areas then try to recreate the patina yourself to match the existing.
If you don’t feel you have those skills, there are shops that could help.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Your question basically comes down to what do you want the truck to look like when finished??? If you like the patina, you can remove the loose/flaking and chalky paint with a good power wash and scrub down and then coat it with one of the currently available "patina preservers" which provides a coating to basically seal and preserve how it looks today. If you want a nice factory style paint job, then you must do the whole strip down, body work/paint prep and full repaint process.
