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| | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,241 | I'am on the hunt for replacement tie rod dust seals, I am using the stock ball and socket type tie rods. The drag link has the later modern type of tie rod ends on it. All four dust boots are bad, due to age and crappy material. Energy Suspension has quite a few option for cheap, I was hoping someone has changed theirs and knows which ones fit decent. On the stock tie rods, replacements can be had, but I'am pretty cheap so maybe someone has made a set that works? I have never had stock seals, just rubber boots I came across that kinda fit, looks like there was a sheet metal cover with a rubber washer/seal to hold it in place. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,172 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,172 | Don't bother buying from the usual suspects. The rubber products (including tire rod dust seals) disintegrated while the chassis was sitting out in the weather before I got the cab and bed on. Energy Suspension stuff should be good stuff. They recommend measuring the shaft and outer part of the joint to get the correct fit. Link
Last edited by klhansen; 07/18/2024 1:10 AM. Reason: added link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 47 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2020 Posts: 47 | Don't go cheap. Had a 66 Rambler that bought dust seals from NAPA. Sat inside the Garage for 1 year. All four cracked.
just retired and finally making headway on my project truck. 1940 GMC AC152.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 6,962 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2021 Posts: 6,962 | Even the high dollar stuff is crap. Kanter is one of the worst offenders. Over-priced steering and suspension kits that are made in China. The rubber will not just crack, it disintegrates indoors in a matter of months.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,241 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,241 | Thats what I have now, cheap rubber falling apart. For the stock type ball and sockets on the tie-rods, I am going with a small section of 1" heater hose and a couple of wire ties. It doesn't have to look original, just has to keep the grease in and dirt out. For the drag-link ends, I purchased some Energy Suspension universal boots, they were cheap and have a 7 year warranty if that means anything. I built this thing in '98-'99 so I guess its time for stuff to go bad. | | |
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