The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop windshield rubber - inside or outside question (my 1958)

Hey guys, I have my windshield in somewhat. I have a question whether or not the inner lip of the rubber goes on the inside or the out side of the glass channel/metal flange?
see pic.

If you have a 1955 2nd Series Shop Manual, check out pages 1-3 thru 1-5 (you can see them HERE if you don't have one handy. You can see the glass and weatherstrip profile in Fig 2 on page 1-3. The last part of installation step #5 on Page 1-5 says "...seat the lip of the rubber channel over the flange..." so I think it would extend over the flange and into the interior area. Clear as mud?

As Dan said...lip over and in. If you have any way to repair/repaint the inside lip (the part of the flange facing toward the front or outside) I would suggest doing it before installing the new windshield/windshield rubber. Water that gets back there tends to be harbored and tends to rust things. Doesn't have to be rain...can happen when you wash the truck.

Ok. yes Its been painted and all. Its 99% in at the moment.
This is not a DIY project. At least not this case. Lucky I had my neighbor help.

All right! all it needed was some more slapping at the top and it seated perfect.
Amazing! I`ve ordered a new windshield to do my 1959 with.
The process is not bad. IDK why 2 glass companies would not do it or failed to showup.
The glass definitely has to be coaxed into position. I recommend using a bath towel
on the glass as you slap it. Thats what I used at the end. Made the difference.
I was hopeful after the roof filler replacement that the outline for the WS had not deviated.
It helps again to have 2 others to compare with.

Glass companies today are staffed with folks who have been trained to replace modern windshields only and to do it quickly. A rubber gasket and a complex curved windshield isn't anything they've ever done. Kind of like asking your dentist to remove your tonsils while he's in there working on a cavity. He might be able to and you might survive but the chances are not good.

Those rubber gaskets fit a lot better, with less chance of cracking the windshield, if they're lubricated with glycerine before installing the assembly. It allows for a little slippage between the glass and the rubber as the gasket is pulled into place. A piece of thin nylon cord held into the channel that snaps over the lip on the cab with masking tape is useful also. One person holds the glass snug against the cab while someone inside pulls on the cord. The seal flips over the lip of the cab as the cord is pulled.
Jerry

You know I tried and started with the 1/4 inch rope. But for some reason the windshield would not
go into the opening of the truck with the rope installed. I pulled it out 1/2 way thru the procedure. I guess it did help some.
The pointy tool was the ticket. It was left and the right ,coaxing it in. Where the rubber would catch
and w/o lubricant it would hold tll that was flipped out. Having someone on the outside to have constant pressure
is a must. Watching that glass work its way to home was kinda cool. I highly recommend using a towel on the glass
for the slapping.
Far as the glass companies , I won`t make excuses for someone who said they would be there and not no explanation.
Whatever happened to a challenge? For $450 I`d show up and put someone else's glass in for them. And not guarantee it would not break.

Wow, classic parts wants $239 for the windshield and $285 to ship it.
Does anyone know of something cheaper for a 1959 windshield?

NPD lists theirs for $258 tinted or clear. Free shipping on orders over $300. Buy some extra stuff.

Auto City Classic is $199.00 I don't know about shipping.

https://www.autocityclassic.com/1955-1959-cab-and-cab-over-engine-standard-and-deluxe/

LMC Truck is also $199.00 $30 shipping Free on orders over $1000 (2021 catalog)

Classic Industries is also $199.00 + Shipping $125min + $40 to residential address.

Thanks, I`ll check on these. NPD is ?

NPD = National Parts Depot

These windshields have a double lip. We always used (2) cotton drapery cords to pull them in. It is a 2 man job, one putting pressure from the outside while the other starts pulling the cord starting from the middle on the bottom. the cord should be pulled straight up, down, or inward slowly working it over the lip. Then repeat with the 2nd cord. silicone spray on the rubber helps. If you have the stainless trim it has to go into the rubber before you slip it onto the glass. Masking tape is used to keep the rubber and stainless in place while pulling the window over the lips.The hook tool is used in the areas where the cord did not get it over the lip. Back in the day the whole underside of the rubber had a non-hardening sealer applied before installation to seal the rubber to the body. It made a huge mess that needed to be cleaned up with solvent. The same sealer was used to seal the glass to the rubber. If you don't plan on driving it in the rain and storing it inside you won't have to worry about it leaking.
Scott

LMC was the cheapest. $189 + $125.