Hello. New around here, so forgive me if this isn't the right area to post. This truck fell into my lap and I'm starting a build sheet. The frame and body are staying, everything else is tired. Decent budget, lotta time, new to the resto game. I get the whole LS/SBC debate, so to save y'all the ad nauseam, I'm going sbc. I'd like something that's easily approachable, has a certain aesthetic/sound, reliable enough and economical enough to be a daily going to town rig with modern-ish accoutrements (power steering etc). If sticking some hot roddy parts on there accomplish that (hei, efi, etc), that's fine too. I gotta teach myself how to weld, and I'm gonna rebuild the 235. So to save some time, I'd like to buy a new crate. Who's the goto these days? Thanks!
Last edited by Peggy M; 06/30/202411:44 PM. Reason: added more info to the title
You will probably get a variety of opinions from many qualified folks. You’re truck looks to be in good shape.
Don’t know if there’s a “go to”. Guess you know you will be adding side motor mounts. You might want to check the HiPo section.
Good luck on your build!
Last edited by Peggy M; 06/30/20245:59 PM. Reason: add hot link to HiPo
~ Victor 1941 3/4-Ton Pickup (in process). Read about it in the DITY Gallery 1955 Grumman Kurbside "Doughboy" 235/3 on tree w/ OD 1957 3100 - moved on 1959 C4500 Short Bus "Magic Bus" - moved on 1959 G3800 1 Ton Dually "Chief" - moved on 1958 C4400 Viking "Thor" ~ moved on to fellow Bolter
Pretty sure nobody's building ready to go 235s. I had a heckuva time finding a 200 straight six Ford. Everybody wants Chevy 350s and Ford 302s.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Is that something that could be posted in Truck Parts Wanted in the Swap Meet? I good thing with posting there is that Dan will be on the look-out, too.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Finding a "crate" 235 is going to be about like finding a chicken with lips. Maybe Jasper, but it's pretty unlikely. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Someone on this site recently posted that Jasper quoted about $7K for a rebuild on a Stovebolt.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I think he'd prefer to go with a drop in 235 but since there aren't any, he'll settle for a 350
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
First, welcome to Stovebolt! Good luck with your new project.
Nobody here has mentioned it but welding on any sort of automobile/truck frame is fraught with a number of very specific risks...some of which can be dangerous not only to you but to everyone with whom you share the highway. I understand these risks, Jerry understands them and so do a few others here. Please get second and third opinions on this and please enroll in a welding course or two...community colleges usually offer these for not a great deal of expense and most are good.
That aside do you mean a new crate to put the 235 in after you rebuild it? Because buying a 235 "crate" engine is a completely different thing from "I'm gonna rebuild the 235." Sorry...don't mean to sound grumpy or anything but your message is confusing to me. If you're going to replace the 235 (or whatever engine is currently in the truck) with an SBC, then there may be very little reason to rebuild your inline 6. Just sell it as is would be my suggestion. Rebuilding a 235, 216 or 261 can be a money pit today. It also depends on the year of manufacture of your six. Some will cost more to rebuild than others and some parts are either no longer available or very expen$ive.
Changing the inline 6 to a small block Chevy engine brings some challenges. Hopefully you know these but since you've said you're new to the resto game, maybe not. Let me see if I can help, please: First, the sbc won't just slip in and bolt up to things. It may bolt up to some things, but there will be issues: it is much wider...your steering box may be in the way, the exhaust system will be greatly different, the motor mounts will be different and the sbc will weigh less so your front suspension may not operate as it was designed. The design of the suspension/steering was specific to your truck and changes can have consequences of safety. Please talk to us about that. You have a straight axle front end and a straight axle is subject to a lot of vagaries of performance and predictability. Adding power steering won't make it safer...just easier to steer. Very important. Even in perfect condition it was not designed for speed in any way. We have no idea what transmission you have but if you change it to a transmission more compatible with the sbc (ie more modern and synchronized), you will also have to change to an open driveshaft and a different rear end. Money and time and a lot of need to study gearing, ratios, etc. Many pitfalls are possible. You may need different shock mounts, your braking system will be different, the width of the rear end comes into play...many little things and many big things.
One other really important point...if you choose to use a V8, you're going to need to have some very well-considered ideas on how you plan to steer and stop the truck. Nothing at all about your truck ever contemplated speeds higher than about 55mph.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
The wheels on the truck in the picture have way too much offset, which will make the steering deadly dangerous at any speed, let alone the highway speeds a V8 conversion will make it possible to run. Ditto on the above comments about upgrading steering, suspension, and brakes, so factor in the cost to make the project safe for yourself, and all the people who share the road with you. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Tuesday, lets get the terms & numbers straight so we know what you are wanting. The 235 is a straight 6 engine similar to the original engine in that truck. It is an easy swap with minor modifications. The sbc is a v-8 engine available in 55 & latter trucks. It would take a lot of major modifications as mentioned earlier to put one in that truck. It would not be for the novice mechanic. Also mentioned was the fact that o-hauling a 235 engine will be very expensive. Often you can find good used 235 engines from guys that have replaced it with another engine. I hope that clears up things a little.
George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Sorry. That was me. I misunderstood your first post. I just fixed it. THIS HOW TO: Flag a post may come in handy now that you are here. One of a number of moderators can fix stuff.
Last edited by Peggy M; 06/30/202411:47 PM.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery || In the Gallery Forum "I didn't see this one coming. I don't see much of anything coming. :-O"
Thank you, Jon. Appreciate the input. I’m getting rid of everything except the frame and body. I’ve never worked on a 235 before, so I’m also going to rebuild that as well because why not. Budget isn’t too much of a concern and I’m aware of the pit of snakes I’m jumping into. Just lookin to get some input on what works best on a truck like this, who’s reputable, etc
Tuesday .... please please please put the wrenches down for a moment ... take a deep breath ... and reread Jon G, Hotrod Lincoln, Wrenchbender (and everyone else who posted above) posts above.
I have a couple of questions for you to consider:
1. Why are you getting rid of everything except the frame and body?? A LOT of us here on this site have done minimal mods to our trucks and enjoy perfectly driveable trucks in modern traffic at highway speeds.
2. Why the crate 350??? If you're going to rebuild the 235 anyway, why not just use that?? The 235 (if that's what you actually have and not the truck's original 216) is *perfectly* capable of providing what you need to enjoy your truck in modern driving conditions AND with *minimal* modifications. The V8 "upgrade", as stated above by the most competent authorities in this hobby (I'll stack George, Jon and Jerry up against *anyone*), involves extensive modifications that are well beyond the capabilities of the novice restorer. I do not consider myself a novice (but not that far advanced from novice) and I wouldn't attempt it.
3. Why get rid of the driveline and front axle? I routinely drive in in traffic and on the Interstate with my original straight axle and non-power steering (properly aligned and adjusted, of course). I even still run my original Huck brakes. BUT ... I concede that upgrading to Bendix brakes may be advisable for most drivers.
Hopefully its not too late for you to do some more thinking and research before selecting an approach for your truck. In the end, though ... it is *your* truck and decision.
We're here to help however you decide to proceed.
John
~ John
"We are not now that strength which in old days Moved earth and heaven; that which we are, we are"
1948 International Farmall Super A 1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Just answering the op's first question, Summit Racing, Jeg's, or even your local CarQuest/Advance can supply a crate engine. Summit has a good selection.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
I got a 55 series 1 that someone had already installed a 350. It was not modified correctly, and I ended up redoing most of the truck which is still in work. I am staying with it as it is expensive to go back to the original engine and drive train. If you go with the swap you will have to alter the steering box placement and move it outward a couple inches, if you keep the original front end. That means altering the firewall also. The cooling system will also be insufficient for a V8. The original heater was not designed for the pressures of a modern engine (14 psi vs 4 psi) so a new heater core will be needed. The transmission will also need to be compatible with the engine. The original rear was not designed for the power of a V8, so that must be upgraded. The brakes are also going to be updated. You have a reasonably easy restoration as it sits right now. It seems like you may be chewing off more than you realize. Before you get started, I would get make sure I had enough equipment to perform the necessary tasks. Do you have measurement tools for rebuilding an engine? Torque wrenches, calipers, micrometers, cylinder hone etc. Do you have an engine hoist and engine stand? Floor jack and engine stands. Stick welder, MIG welder and oxyacetylene welding equipment? Have you rebuilt engines and the rest of the drive train system? Believe me, there is much more. Not trying to discourage you, but make sure you are not getting in over your head.
If you deal with Blueprint Engines it might be wise to stock up on "personal lubricant". You'll need it! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!