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9 members (cmayna, 49choptop, fonz8261, FrankenChevy, baldeagle, Peggy M, tclederman, TexasJim50, 1 invisible),
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Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,018 Posts1,055,341 Members48,419 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
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For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Aug 2023 Posts: 15 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2023 Posts: 15 | I am looking for a drag link replacement . I'm converting to power steering on a 1939 Chevy 1.5 ton truck , I have the steering box and arm with a tie rod end .
I am looking for a way to replace the ball with a tie rod end at the front wheel . the distance from steering arm to the front wheel mount is 12 inches . if I drill and press out
the ball , what type of tie rod end would I need to replace this ? is a swedge tube strong enough for this idea ? what is recommended ?
thanks for looking | | | | | Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,982 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2016 Posts: 1,982 | I found an adjustable drag link with the correct taper on each end for my '57 2 ton, ordered it from Summit Racing. I don't have any experience with the older trucks so it's up to you to research the type of end needed.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,477 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,477 | The main thing is to find tie rod ends that can connect correctly to your pitman arm and steering control arm. Some are straight (no taper) and some are tapered. The tie rod ends need to match the design of what they're going into. If you use a tie rod end some may hold up better than others in this application. I had a MOOG part that completely failed when I did this so I converted back to the stock type drag link. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,677 | I struggled to find a reliable and usable source for ball joint taper specs….when taking on a similar endeavor.
If anyone has such a link or resource to share, might be worth posting for the greater good
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,477 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,477 | MOOG used to provide this and a lot of other useful information when using their online "part finder" but I wasn't able to find it a few months ago when a friend asked me. I'm sure they still have the information, but production and some other aspects of this company have been turned over to 16 different countries including China, Turkey, Thailand, Mexico and others.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
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