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#1546611 05/11/2024 7:43 PM
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'Bolter
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Installed new door glass today. The driver side seems to not roll all the way up tight. Is there any adjustment? Thanks

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Found adjustments but not enough movement. I'm thinking the regulator is just worn and loose. Who makes the best replacement regulator?

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Renaissance Man
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Loosen the screws on the roller track, roll the window all of the way up, then tighten the screws.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Roller track is spot welded to door is it not?

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Renaissance Man
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You are referring to the lower track. The upper track is screwed onto the frame of the door glass with 4 screws.

Last edited by Peggy M; 05/12/2024 6:49 PM. Reason: Remove quote

1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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No adjustment in upper track except back and forth a little.

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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If you have new channel around the window opening, check to be sure it didn't get pinched together near the top. That can prevent the window from going up into the channel. I just finished installing glass in one of my doors and needed to spread the felt channel a bit to have it close all the way.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by breezy
No adjustment in upper track except back and forth a little.
Try what I suggested, then get back to me when it works. smile


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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I've tried it
No better but thanks for suggesting that.

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Okay, now remove the 4 top roller track screws so that you can manually move the glass to the fully up position, free of interference from being connected to the window regulator. This will let you know if the glass fits the hole.
If it fits nicely all the way up, then roll the regulator all the way up to see if it reaches up far enough to do what it is supposed to do. If not, then you will now know where the problem is. The regulator has a hitch in its get along. Maybe a bend gear tooth, or a bad upper or lower track roller.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Carl the old glass was fine. I'm really thinking it's the new aftermarket assembly glass. It's really close now but needs maybe 1/8" to fully seat. Probably just live with it for now. I've adjusted everything I could. It's like they cut the glass to short. Wired thing is passenger side is fine. I may revisit it later on. Trying to find time to install 235 engine now. Thanks for all your help.

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Carl I included a picture from the corner of glass notice the outer frame extends below the lower frame. That's why I believe the glass is to short. If they were even with bottom frame it would be perfect. Not cheap to but just cheaply made unfortunately.
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Screenshot_20240515-191814_Chrome.jpg (48.31 KB, 102 downloads)

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Here’s one of my originals that fits perfectly.
Attachments
IMG_2175.jpeg (74.82 KB, 87 downloads)
IMG_2179.jpeg (128.95 KB, 85 downloads)
IMG_2180.jpeg (128.22 KB, 86 downloads)


Mike Barnes
1950 GMC 1-ton pickup
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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by breezy
Carl I included a picture from the corner of glass notice the outer frame extends below the lower frame. That's why I believe the glass is to short. If they were even with bottom frame it would be perfect. Not cheap to but just cheaply made unfortunately.
Looking at your pic, I agree. Your glass guy hosed you. The glass is too short and he didn't put the frame back together correctly.
Well, at least you don't have to tear your door all apart to remove your regulator. That is why I chose the approach that I did, to try to get to the real cause of your problem before you had to remove the regulator.


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Lmc complete assembly. So I would not recommend there side glass replacement

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AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
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LMC is a reputable Company. Have you considered contacting them?


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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LMC will probably give your money back. They have better than average customer service in my experience.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
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I've had them for years in storage. I might email and see what happens.

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Maybe the repro is no good. The outer frame extends below the lower frame on my original 1950 windows. Did you compare the screw hole to top of frame dimension in the pics I posted?


Mike Barnes
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They are installed. So I haven't had a chance.

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Renaissance Man
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You may be able to open up the holes in the roller track to allow you to move the frame high enough to reach the top.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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I actually had to a little just to get the bolts in. Just added to the problem. I have another window track to see what I can figure out. It seems the welded on nut to the bottom frame is not centered. I'm thinking of trying to drill new holes lower on the bottom track so as to move up the whole frame up. Might be a little tough to get a nut on the back side but should take care of everything.


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