If you have new channel around the window opening, check to be sure it didn't get pinched together near the top. That can prevent the window from going up into the channel. I just finished installing glass in one of my doors and needed to spread the felt channel a bit to have it close all the way.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Okay, now remove the 4 top roller track screws so that you can manually move the glass to the fully up position, free of interference from being connected to the window regulator. This will let you know if the glass fits the hole. If it fits nicely all the way up, then roll the regulator all the way up to see if it reaches up far enough to do what it is supposed to do. If not, then you will now know where the problem is. The regulator has a hitch in its get along. Maybe a bend gear tooth, or a bad upper or lower track roller.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Carl the old glass was fine. I'm really thinking it's the new aftermarket assembly glass. It's really close now but needs maybe 1/8" to fully seat. Probably just live with it for now. I've adjusted everything I could. It's like they cut the glass to short. Wired thing is passenger side is fine. I may revisit it later on. Trying to find time to install 235 engine now. Thanks for all your help.
Carl I included a picture from the corner of glass notice the outer frame extends below the lower frame. That's why I believe the glass is to short. If they were even with bottom frame it would be perfect. Not cheap to but just cheaply made unfortunately.
Carl I included a picture from the corner of glass notice the outer frame extends below the lower frame. That's why I believe the glass is to short. If they were even with bottom frame it would be perfect. Not cheap to but just cheaply made unfortunately.
Looking at your pic, I agree. Your glass guy hosed you. The glass is too short and he didn't put the frame back together correctly. Well, at least you don't have to tear your door all apart to remove your regulator. That is why I chose the approach that I did, to try to get to the real cause of your problem before you had to remove the regulator.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
LMC is a reputable Company. Have you considered contacting them?
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
LMC will probably give your money back. They have better than average customer service in my experience.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Maybe the repro is no good. The outer frame extends below the lower frame on my original 1950 windows. Did you compare the screw hole to top of frame dimension in the pics I posted?
I actually had to a little just to get the bolts in. Just added to the problem. I have another window track to see what I can figure out. It seems the welded on nut to the bottom frame is not centered. I'm thinking of trying to drill new holes lower on the bottom track so as to move up the whole frame up. Might be a little tough to get a nut on the back side but should take care of everything.