The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Which carburetor does it need?

1978 IL 6, 250. This carburetor is supposed to be for a Ford but came with my truck years ago.. I think it runs rich although it runs great.
The motor’s rings are not seated yet ( I don’t think). It’s also getting 13 MOG.
Pictures of the one I have. Intake is for a four barrel but has a 2 barrel spacer.
I’ve been advised before but can’t find those posts.

Find an intake and carb that came with the engine.

I'm not sure what the conversion factor is from MOG to MPG but 13 sounds pretty good.

Oh, oK! It had headers & I needed to do away with that to fit the z Chevy.

Perhaps this is the previous post you were thinking about?

Carb Questions

You might want to give us a recap on what you are doing. I'm sure I'm not the only one who is confused. Is this right? You bought an engine with the integrated head and intake manifold. You had a mechanic replace the head with a separate head and intake manifold. The intake manifold is an Offy manifold designed for a 4 barrel carb. Did the mechanic do anything else? (e.g. change cam)

glennj3, Since your question is engine related, I have moved your post and replies to the Engine Shop forum. I think the Mods over there can find your original threads and merge this one to help you get back on track with your question.

The carb in your pictures looks like an offshore clone of the Ford Motorcraft carb that was used on various small block V8s. The vast majority of those things are worse than useless. It's way too big for a 250, so it will run rich because of the low manifold vacuum it creates. The power enrichment system will stay opened up all the time. Why not use the intake and exhaust the engine was designed for, instead of trying to outguess the entire GM research and development division? Putting headers on a 250 is like putting lipstick on a pig, unless you have done massive internal modifications to the engine and cylinder head to justify it, and plan to run full throttle and high RPM most of the time. Then adding twice as much carburetion as necessary just compounds the problem.

If you're going to insist on running non-stock intake and exhaust parts, let me suggest you try a Rochester 2 barrel for a late 1950s 265 Chevy V8, or a Stromberg 2 barrel for a 270 cubic inch MOPAR V8 from the mid-1950s. "Original equipment"- - -not something assembled by a 12 year old kid in a southeast Asia sweatshop. Either one will be much better than the carb you're running now.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry, this is the response I was looking for. Maybe you can help me out some ? I see them on EBay but they don’t tell me what motor or car they go on.
I’ve spent enough time & money on it for a while now so I don’t care to change intake & exhaust.

I see these old 2 barrel carbs use 3 bolts, mine uses 4. Is there an adapter?

I see two Rochester 2 barrels on Ebay at the moment #7008388, which is supposed to fit a 265 V8, 1955-57. Here's a specification sheet:

https://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=7008388

The 3 bolt carbs are probably Holley or Stromberg models for a Ford flathead engine. The Stromberg I'm talking about has a 4 bolt footprint similar to the Rochester- - - -used on 270 cubic inch MOPAR V8s from the mid-1950s. I'll be using one of them on my 270 GMC when I switch to a military 2 barrel intake manifold for a 302 six. The 2 to 4 barrel adapter for your manifold is available from several online vendors.

For instance:
www.ebay.com/itm/175805818824?

Jerry

Here is a possibility on eBay, an intake and carb combo.
Intake and Carb for 250

Explain to me why these carburetors work on a 270 V8 but not my 6, 250? My intake is a 4 barrel and has an adapter on it for the 2 Barrel.
I don’t want to remove my intake any more. Too much trouble!

Hotrod Lincoln -- I think he needs one of yours!

You can keep your 4 barrel intake manifold. Sort of like that guy who claimed "You can keep your doctor"! That one, and the adapter it needs to make a Rochester 2 barrel fit it, will only rob 10-15 horsepower at wide open throttle, compared to the right setup. No problem, unless you intend to win races. A street machine will seldom, if ever use all the power an engine is capable of making. Any original equipment Rochester 2G series carb, or any Stromberg 2 barrel that's anywhere close to the right cubic inch capacity, will make the engine run better- - - -and get better gas mileage, than any Holley clone built in some 3rd. world country. My advice might be worth exactly what I charge you for it, but it's the product of 65+ years of making a living keeping these old junk heaps running- - - -take it or leave it- - - -I'm not going to miss any meals either way.
Jerry

Carburetor For Chevrolet 2GC 305 350/5.7 400/6.6L 1970-1980 2 Barrel Rochester
On EBay. Does this one look correct?

That eBay carb sounds a bit generic to me. Covers 305 to 400 cubic inch engines, which is a big difference. Also covers 1970 (pre smog, relatively well performing engines) to 1980 (all kinds of smog [and performance] limiting engines).

What part of part number "7008388 Rochester 2 barrel" is hard to understand? That specific carb is calibrated for a 265- - - -close to the size engine you have, and it's got the small diameter venturis for good part throttle response. That generic "one size fits none" carb on Ebay is worse than the one you've got already.
Jerry

Comment on the "one size fits none" clones:

Along similar lines;

The higher quality is long remembered, while the higher price is soon forgotten.