The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay No power to gas or temp gauge

Both gauges don`t work. With this wiring kit 1958-1959 Chevy Truck Complete Wiring Set, V8 from ecklers.
There is an adapter for the ign switch. Must not be getting power. Anything to check first?
I replaced the old temperature sender ,in case it was bad. The gas sender works at the tank.
I checked it on another truck. Truck cranks fine. Just no power there.

Take a picture of the back of your gauge cluster and post. The power from key in on position can be wired several ways as some of the gauges chain positive together. Of course chasing the positive from ignition is a good start. Are you running a aftermarket fuse box?

I will 1st thing in the morning. Fuse box is not installed yet. thanks hcb3200

The fuse block is in. I forgot I did install that.
I have pics. I`ll check some things first.

Pics of cluster and block. There is power to the block.

check both those pink wires for 12 volts that go temp and fuel.
and work your way back down those wires till you find out where they go.

Did you actually check the voltage at the gauge with a voltmeter? You describe changing the senders, but not checking the connectors themselves.

OK, I checked the gauges. I have 11.6 volts at both switches with the key off...??
Key on , power to the fuel gauge goes away. Temp voltage stays the same.

Well then something is not wired right. Probably switch

M+H sent me this adapter to use. Looking at it , it looks like it is wired different than
what I need. Allows 1957-59 Chevy Truck Engine Harnesses To Be Connected To The Reproduction Ignition Switch Available For 1955-56 Chevy Trucks & Cars.
My switch is not for a 55-56. Its for 55-59 But those pink [power wires to the gauges should be on ACC?

Here is wiring diagram.

another site has this with pictures. as well.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=783687

Does the back of your switch look like one of these.



There should be a 3 plug connector that connects to the ignition side of things all together. (including your gauges)
then a plug going to your solenoid.
and one from battery.

Or you may have the switch that has ACC as a seperate plug.
You have a choice of when you want gauges to fire up on ACC and On or just On with ignition wires. IF its on ACC and not staying on when you go to ON then you may have a bad switch.

(I would post that pick but keep getting error now when trying to attach a picture to this thread)

Well durn, I am messed up now. I could see how it was wired with the adapter harness.
Those pink wires for power to FUEL and TEMP I put on ACC. They have a BROWN wire with them.
The 3 adapter wires go to Purple IGN 2
RED IGN 1
PINK/Brown SOL.
But I thought PURPLE was SOL. and no need for IGN 2 .
So now it won`t do anything. Start,nothing. Bad day for sure.
I`ll put everything back the way it was after I get another adapter harness.
I hope I did not screw anything up. It clicked one time and acted like no power.

RED is most likely battery power and should be on BAT.

confirm your starter solenoid color wire for starter and put on SOL. Purple normally but you never know so check it

Pink(s) on ACC
Brown only wire on ACC
Green on ignition.

You should not need that adapter you had showed first.

Thanks. Yeah you would think I would not need the adapter, but with this wiring kit , I have to.
The harness does not match the back of the switch. The adapter plugs in and matches the switch but not the same wires.
I`d be happy if the thing was back the way it was for now.
When I get the adapter ,I`hope it will crank .It`ll be back the way it was.

post a picture of the back of your switch so we can see the markings as well.

then we can help you wire it up correctly.

and the end of the harness

Yep, thats the same switch you have. The new replacement. I have an extra
and an original without as many terminals but did work and come in a 1958 truck.
The three. Original out of a 58 truck
Next is the new version and 3 rd is an original for a foot start.
Single pic is of the 58.

Which one do you want to use and what does en of harness look like

Also, note on those switchs ING 1, and ING 2 are not the same.
When you were turning to the start position, the solenoid and ignition 2 only will have power. ignition 1 and a aCC will not.

When in Run position. ACC and ignition 1 and ignition 2 will have power
In aCC only aCC will have power.

The starter wire solenoid on sol. Purple
Dark green on ing 2
For it to run minimum

Gauges on ing 1 or 2 pink
Red on bat

Thanks so much!! I`ll try . When I get the adapter, it should be back the way it was. If not....IDK what happened.

With this wiring kit, there is no green wire going to the cluster other than the
TEMP wire to the gauge. Ill have the adapter Friday

Forget anything about the cluster for right now. OR THE COLORs, or the connectors. lets just follow some wires

You must have some positive all the time larger gauge wire running from the battery to the BAT. Always hot if battery is connected.
You must have a wire of some type running from starter solenoid to the SOL.
You must have a wire to the ignition coil (or computer and all the stuff on the LS engine) from ING 2. (NOT ING1)

This will get it cranking and a running engine and should turn off when key is moved to ACC ( or stop)

You then have some type of wire running from ING1 to gauges.
Acc can have anything you want running while your just sitting there but not running the engine like radio.

my guess without instructions is that the adapter cable you have goes on that middle switch of the three. The white connector goes on left three posts (SOL), ING1, ING2
The pink wire end jumpers over to ACC. But this may also keep the truck running until you turn key to stop. Some folks want that.

and the black plug goes to the harness.

PLEASE validate this setup by following the wires to where they are supposed to go above.

But until you validate where those wires go from and to above you are not going to know its right because if one of those wires is not going where its supposed to its not going to run or gauges work.

Thank you much. Bear with me till tomorrow. I have that adapter and
I can get it back to where it was. Cranking, running and all but no working TEMP or FUEL>

Thank god for small miracles. I got the adapter and at least I am back to square one.
I will look into the ACC power getting those pink wires on .To verify run or work gauges.
thanks so much!!! I`ll keep at it soon

You guess correct here. The pink wire/power for gauges are run to IGN 1 +2. Thats why one stayed on and the other cutoff/lost power after ignition...?
Those two need to be on ACC. Key on/ Fuel and Temp check. I will work on it some tomorrow. Just super happy I did not damage anything.

Ok, got it!!