I ordered new pins & spring to attempt repairing my driver side door. It sags, won’t lock (using the door handle. The door handle mechanism is loose & rattles (well the rod is very loose too).I could put grease in it but will I need to replace it or are they repairable?
Last edited by Peggy M; 03/28/202411:04 PM. Reason: edit title
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
I have a 1950 3100. Mine did the same. I took it apart (Carefully) and it had a broken spring if I recall correctly. I had to be careful where the 'tabs' go in and bend to hold the piece together . I will try and find a picture. It was about 6 years ago. Todd
Found some pics. That spring was broken (sorry no pic of broken spring) last pic is Passenger side.
You may have the wrong mechanism or you have it on the wrong door. The flat bar should not be parallel to the ground. (hard to tell with the angle of your pic.)
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Looks like the right mechanism. The bar is on top on the later ones, like in Shaffer's last pic.
If you have a welder, you could put a few tacks around the hole where the shaft goes and then redrill or grind with a dremel tool to the right diameter to fit the shaft. If the tabs break off, when you take it apart, the assembly could be tack welded back together.
Repops are available as well, if the repair attempt goes to hades in a handbasket. Link
As far as locking, there's an adjustment that can be made as the holes are slotted to allow rotation of the mechanism.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I'm going to need to replace my driver's side door with a repop as the spline portion of the handle shaft is broken off. Too bad that they do not offer a rebuild part like they do for the window crank (need to repair that one as well).
I’d have to check, but wouldn’t it be cool if the shafts on the window crank and door remote were the same?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I just shot some penetrating oil on the window crank area. Amazing my window now rolls up & down with one hand like a breeze! Also the rod does not rattle!
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Repaired my hinges & used brass bushings. It will be nice to have a door that props open with a spring! I’m ready to find assistance to slide the door on the Driver side. I was told not to attempt to straiten the hinge. This is the way they came off but sure looks slanted (particularly the bottom one). Unless the door is made for it like this I think I’ll have a problem sliding the door on! ???
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
The door rolls in at the bottom so you should be fine!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I agree with Phil. See the attached picture where that hinge bar is basically parallel with the door pillar edge near the bottom. It should slip on just fine. I used my engine hoist boom to support the door from the top to assist with getting them on.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Finished the hinge rebuild & I really like the springs! The door latch does not catch after adjusting the plate (it never did). It appears the plate needs to be positioned out further than the screw holes allow. The door latch will lock when pushed with the door open & unlock when I push the knob. They say I should hear 2 clicks but I only see/ hear one. I’m hesitant to enlarge the holes on the plate.???
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
I’ve been working on the door latch. I realized they the door locking mechanism does click dwice with the door open & I push on it hard for that 2 nd click. It looks like a pain to remove? Can it be replaced with a rebuilt one (does anyone sell them?)
1953 Chevy 153A 3/4-ton Working on my project since 2015 Follow along in my DITY
Your door latch looks good other than the scraping on the side the part that usually wears is the cog that moves and there are clips that apparently work okay to help. I would give that latch a good clean and lube as it looks like it may not have been used as the gate lock was being used.
Looking at your pic of the door, you need to raise it up so that beltline lines up with the cab beltline. I recommend that you remove the striker while adjusting the door up. The striker will just get in the way. The door needs to hang in place with the beltlines lined up without support of the striker. Adjusting doors is a bear. All of the little imperfections add up to huge problems.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
52 Carl has a good point belt line looks off and to compensate the striker is positioned all the way one the one adjustment. Did not see the picture of the outside of the door until now .
