The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts rear brakes - 1962 Series 80

I am tearing into the left rear drum because something in there is causing all my brake fluid to leak away. I go the tires off and the axle out, and pulled off the big nuts in front of the bearing. How do I pull the bearing? Or does it come out with the drum? It started getting dark on me about at this point but I messed with it for a few minutes and it did not seem to want to budge, the bearing or the drum. I would appreciate any advice on this that anyone has.
Thanks, Ben

Slack the brake adjusters some, then the drun, hub, and bearings all slide off real easy.

OK thanks, same advice I got from a buddy at work today also. Will get to it on Fri., my first day off.

Put a greased piece of sheet metal under the tire(s), and lower the axle with a bottle jack until the tire just touches the metal. When the weight of the tire/hub assembly is carried by the plate, the hub will slide off the spindle easily. Right now, the drum is probably hanging up on the brake shoes. I used to use that little trick to handle 18-wheeler dual tire/hub assemblies during bearing changes on road service calls. (At least 300 lbs.)
Jerry

OK I got the drum off by just slacking the adjuster. The bottom cylinder (1 3/4") was the leaker and had rust and pits in it. So I pulled it off and went to Carquest (which is my favorite FLAPS) because the old guys there can find JUST ABOUT anything. I told them what it was for and they could not find one from the catalog or looking the part # up in the computer. They said take it to the machine shop and get it honed out to 1 7/8" which they could get a kit for. The machine shop said $100 to $120 plus then I have to do the $24 rebuild kit. I went to N#PA (which I am not to fond of) and they said "yea we can get it here by 9:00 tommorrow". And this was on Fri. so Sat I go pick up my $57 part and get ready to install.
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It looks mostly the same and has the same # stamped into it but the threads are different. The old one has the bleeder screw and an inverted flare (or whatever you call it) for the incoming line. The new one both ports are really deep like for the bleeder screw. I took it back to N#PA and the could not get anything to screw into the deep port to adapt it to the line. Has anyone else come across this? What did you do? My next best hope is go to a Hydrauli hose shop Monday and hope they can figure out what thred it is and how to make something work.
Sorry so long but thanks for reading and responding.

Hy IBenDcars, I need a bit more information to help you out, what part number did Napa supply you with, what is the number that is cast/stamped into the old cylinder? My catalog shows the rear cylinders on a 62 60 series are only 1 1/2" bore, also they are listed as forward and reverse not upper and lower. I believe you said this cylinder was the lower , and it had a bleeder screw in it, so how was the upper cylinder supplied with fluid, with one port for the incoming line, and one with a bleeder screw in it?

Hy IBenDcars, I see I misread you actually have a 62 80 series. I come up with Napa UP26172, which has flared fittings installed

I am moving this post to the BigBolt Forum and closing it here.

Yea the new one is flared but really deep in there. I will figure it out on Monday one way or the other.

the bottom cyl should have flares on both ports, because it uses a jumper tube to go from bottom cyl to top cyl on outside of backing plate, and the top cyl should have the bleeder. sometimes they are front of plate and rear of plate not nesacarily top and bottom....in other words line comes into one cyl,,,then goes to other cyl then out to bleeder. and the reason its the bottom one with both lines it air will rise to top cyl for bleeding in theory anyway...

Last Monday I took the cylinder to a Hydraulic hose shop and they said "we don't have an adapter for that", so I said "adapt it to pipe thread then to the flared line" and they were back in five minutes with my parts. The truck sat all week and now the other side is leaking. #@$%^*&^%#@!@ Brakes! I may get a chance to tear into the other side this weekend, but probably not. I hope it is not as bad and I can just hone it out and get by with a kit.

My 65 C50 has two wheel cyl.one upper and one lower had to replace them all. My new lines fit alright even the jumper. My problem was the bleeder wouldn.t thread in. An old timer just pryed the brass flare out of the cyl. and it worked (threaded) perfectly Thirty seconds and he had it fixed. It sounds like your problem no brake thread size would fit. Three hours of cussing and skinned knuckles. Just an educated opinion. ??????