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Fixing the old truck

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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,828
... or why your doors won't close. By Jon "Jon G" Goodman.

You’ve finally arrived at the back end of your restoration ... the cab is like new and you’ve spent a lot of time hanging the doors and getting them adjusted. You find a weather strip kit from your favorite parts supplier, install it and now ... YOUR DOORS WON’T CLOSE!!! What .... the .... heck?????????


HERE IS the answer to that question in the Paint and Body Tech Tip Forum.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Wow THANK YOU - and thanks JON G. I was literally planning on installing my new W/S tonight. Now I'll measure it first, as I hear it's a bit of a chore. Great information. Wish I'd read that before I ordered it - BUT it's been on the shelf for a few years now so it's now "free" right? smile


1949 Chevrolet 3/4 Ton - Still Solid. Regular Driver
OT Vehicles:
1950 Chevrolet Styline (Parts)
1952 Canuck Pontiac Sedan Delivery (Well Underway)
1973 F250 4x4 Highboy
1977 F250 4x4 Lowboy
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I luckily measured my door space and came to the conclusion that the weather seal I had already purchased was not going to work. I found the 1/2" at the Filling Station. It fit very well, and both doors shut nice.


1947 3600 Chevy
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'Bolter
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I just put in new w-strip in my 62 C10 and its pretty snug.

Im gonna leave it be though. I figure it will relax with the weather and useage 👍👍


1962 C10 with a 235 6cyl -- all of the drive train seems to be original.
Some of this story is in the Side Lot
Some people like a new truck. I liked the old ones.
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I got the standard thicker stripping and it was way too thick, so ordered the thinner version and it fit way better, but still a little too thick. 7 months later, now the door is starting to rattle and I can push it in about a quarter inch when it is locked. So, time to finally adjust the door striker, now that the stripping has compressed over time. I thought I was going to have to wait forever for the door to be flush.

Picture below:

Strip in the left is the one that came off of the truck (assumed to be original).

Strip on the right is what I bought the first time around from Classic Parts and installed it. This stripping was ridiculously thick. I have read that there are doors that fit very tightly, and doors that had a larger gap that needed the thicker stripping.

Strip in the middle is what I installed after I tore all of the Classic Parts stripping off- I could not even get the door closed, let alone flush.

The strip in the middle worked pretty well. I think I got it from the filling station. What a PITA tearing off freshly installed stripping!

The middle stripping probably is closer to the stripping on the left, now that it has compressed over time᠁.

Say, where do you get Silly Putty these days?! That was a great article that I did not find until after I installed the wrong stripping and had to tear it all off!
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Last edited by Norcal Dave; 03/21/2024 3:09 AM.

~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission

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