The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 235 distributor question

I’m sure some of you know I’m chasing a rocker oiling issue now, which leads to a distributor question.
Hopefully the pic works. Should there be an o ring on the distributor shaft? This groove I’m pointing to looks like a great place for one. If so, when I install one do I need to get a petroleum resistant material? I would assume so.
Also, what it this thingy hanging off the side that I’m pointing to also??
Thanks!
J

Also
It took me half hour of cleaning to get it that clean. My engine looks like an EPA Superfund site. I’m guessing my lifter cover gasket has been leaking since about 1966🙃.
Thanks guys!

No O-ring on mine. The other is full of grease (at least it should be). You twist it to grease the rotating shaft You can Un-Screw the cap and clean / fill with grease.. Others can Confirm the O-Ring. I think the Grooves prevent oil leakage.
Todd

The groove is there to keep engine oil from migrating up the housing and leaking. Putting an O ring there will keep the vacuum advance from working properly. The grease cup on the side also has a spring and a plastic disc under it that puts pressure on the distributor shaft to keep it from wobbling and changing the point gap. Fill the cup with chassis grease (not wheel bearing grease) and give the knob about half a turn or so every oil change. There's enough grease in the cup to last several years.
Jerry

No o-ring. As previously mentioned, it will interfere with the operation of the vacuum advance. But now that you have the distributor out, take the top half apart and remove the point plate. You might be surprised by the amount of junk, crud, rust. Brush mineral spirits in until its as clean as you can get it. Once nice and clean, get a little light oil on the advance weights and make sure they are free to move in and out. Check the pins holding the springs. Make sure they are tight and that the springs are both in place. Little grease on the pivots where the springs are attached. I use whatever I have around, usually red or blue wheel bearing grease. Put it back together, reset the points and you have done as much servicing of the mechanical advance short of taking the entire assembly apart.

Make sure that when you install the distributor back in, that it goes all the way down before you tighten the long bolt on the clamp at the engine side of the distributor. It is possible for the distributor teeth to slightly engage with the teeth on the camshaft without the oil pump being engaged by the end of the distributor. This will result in a running engine with no oil pressure.

And don’t lose the little Bakelite “button” that applies the pressure under the spring in the grease cap.

Would be easily to misplace it on your archaeological dig through the nastiness.

I take the bakelite buttons (that Jerry mentioned) out with a skinny pair of hemostats. Dig around with a skinny wire until it flips on its side then use the 'stats to pull it out. One side may be worn. Turn it over to the good side when you put it back in. Fill over it with grease, slide the spring in, grease it again and put the cap filled with grease back on. Twist in 'till you feel pressure on the cap each time you change oil. The felt seal for the cap will be worn and it will seep a little grease on your fingers but what-the-hey... that just tells you there is plenty grease in the cap.

A little more information on this topic on my blog.

http://chev235guy.blogspot.com/search/label/Distributor%20Shaft%20Play%20and%20Remedy?m=0

Dave... you're the best!

a 6 inch piece of 5/16" round Teflon rod is a lifetime supply of discs for about a dozen distributors.
Jerry

Thanks guys. I reinstalled it without taking the points plate off, I may yank that and give it a cleaning. What’s a good point gap? .018”?
Thanks!

Yes .018” is good. Set them a little bigger (.022”) for new points to account for initial rubbing block wear.

Thanks!