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#1540690 03/17/2024 10:31 PM
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 72
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Posts: 72
I am going to paint my engine bay while I have the engine and wire harness removed. I am going to do a shaker can paint job and I was thinking about using either VHT Black Satin Enamel Engine Paint or the VHT Black Satin Roll Bar and Chassis Paint. Can anyone give me some information on which might be the better choice? My concern is the engine paint states you should cure it at 200 degrees for the best finish but it can also finish curing when the engine is operating.

Deegs
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1953 3100
Deegs53 #1540706 03/17/2024 11:19 PM
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,698
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I've used Rust-Oleum semi gloss black rattle cans on several engine bays and it holds up extremely well - for decades. I've also used Duplicolor with equal success. Both types are reasonably priced and locally available at Walmart and Advance Auto.

I never worried about curing or engine bay temperatures with either one and they don't flake off or peel. Don't overthink it.

Rustoleum on engine bay and Duplicor on engine.
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1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Deegs53 #1540714 03/18/2024 12:16 AM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,004
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,004
Agree with Otto. No reason to use engine paint that needs high temp curing on the sheet metal of the engine bay. I use Rust-Oleum semi-gloss black over epoxy primer for the whole chassis including the engine bay (inner fenders and such. The firewall is body color like the factory did it. I just bought a quart of it and used my spray gun rather than rattle cans, although have used a few of those for small items that needed painting. One thing you have to be careful of is the cure time. If you don't follow instructions and put on a second coat too soon it will wrinkle.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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'Bolter
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Thanks guys. I did not think those paints would hold up over time and I don't plan to take out the engine again anytime soon.

Deegs


1953 3100
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,698
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'Bolter
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I painted the entire undercarriage / chassis of my '56 Coupe De'ville with Rust-Oleum semi gloss black 20 years ago. That car is my primary vehicle and has over 100,000 miles on it since then. The paint still looks the way it did when I put it on. I'll take some pictures today if you want.

I also painted a set of (iron? steel?) pool furniture with Rust-Oleum 15 years ago. It sits outside all the time and is never covered. It too, is bright and shiny and not faded, peeling off or rusting through.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)

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