The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay 6 volt turn indicators ... quite a dilemma

This issue is far from resolved! Do NOT attempt to attempt any of this until I have figured out if it actually works yet!

Thanks and sorry!

I now return you to the original thread ...



I want to use my existing 6-volt tail and brake lights as turn indicators, too.

I'm wondering if I can use the towbar/flat tow diodes (or even the 80111 diodes from Painless ...) lkike you see in the kits available from etrailer, etc or if they're only for 12 volt systems.

The actual question: Do diodes care what the voltage is, or just the amps?


Some days it's tough bein' a 6-volt guy adrift in a 12-volt world ...

How do you intend to switch the turn signals on and off? It's possible to accomplish what you want to do with the existing 2-filament tail/brake light bulbs, with some very simple rewiring- - - -no diodes required. It will require a turn signal switch with a turn signal/brake light disctiminator circuit built in. That's not going to happen using a year-correct turn signal switch for Charlie- - - -because they don't exist! A Grote, Signal-Stat, or other big rig turn signal switch clamped to the steering column will do what you want- - - -switches don't care what voltage they encounter.
Jerry

Are you talking about turn signals for a pulled trailer/RV or just for a truck? I searched a little to understand. I guess folks want to use the battery inside an RV to supplement tail lights? I was not aware of that situation. It's the only thing I see with "feedback" issues. Otherwise there is no feedback to worry about? It would be a standard turn signal for truck and standard trailer harness.
Maybe your truck is 6V and "RV" is 12V? Edgecate me on what you want to do exactly.

DC Diodes are rated for forward max voltage and reverse max voltage. The values will be higher than you would ever max out.

This switch will work on either 6 or 12 volts, and if it's wired correctly, you can use your existing brake lights as turn signals- - - -no diodes needed. It's also got built-in 4 way flashers. You'll need to swap the parking light bulb sockets to use 2-filament bulbs.

www.ebay.com/itm/132212633847?

Jerry

Sigh ... I'm not building a clock, I just want to know what time it is.

But if it helps ...

I have a truck, an unrestored 1949 Chevrolet 3804. VIN can be provided if you want that. All 4 tires are inflated to 65 psi, local air temperature is currently 52 degrees F. The truck is painted red with black fenders. I'm currently barefoot. Peggy has socks on. (Tell me when to stop ...). Electrical system is 6 volts. It is going to stay 6 volts. I have a Signal Stat 700 turn indicator stalk (5 wires -- power in and 4 out. Right Front, Right Rear, Left Front, Left Rear. Yes, I know I can single them up. Not sure if I will yet).

I am in the process of upgrading the parking lights to dual filament bulbs.

I do not wish to add additional lights to the back -- I want to use the existing lights (dual filament for marker and brakes). I want to combine the functions of brake lights (powered by the existing brake light circuit) with the added function of individual turn signals. Thus, I need the bright sides of both rear bulbs to illuminate when current flows from the brake light switch, but independent of each other when one of them is sent current from the turn signal. Thus ... Which is why I want to use diodes to keep from backfeeding the turn signal current into the brake lights.

Which circles me back to my original question: Do diodes care what voltage is going through them? i.e., can I use diodes marketed for 12Volt applications in a 6-volt system?
The Painless 80111, for example.


John

Sorry -- I guess that last one came in while I was crafting my witty response ...

So the 80111 from Painless should do the trick then, it seems. well, two of them.

Within the limits of 6v or 12v electrical systems, diodes don't care about voltage.

John, your project got me thinking, so I sketched up a wiring diagram (not sure if I have the diode direction correct.) The downside is that when the brakes are applied, the rear turn signals won't flash like they would with a 7-wire turn signal switch (like the one Jerry posted a link to.) If you don't care if your rear turn signals don't work with the brakes applied, then you're good to go.

It would help to know the tire pressures. Not withstanding that, I see two choices. No brake function on that 700.

1. Buy a 7 wire signal stat or equivalent. As Jerry has posted. By far the easiest and best solution. The T/S switch gets wired to the brake switch. The turn signal switch turns off the brake switch signal to the bulbs brake/turn filament to allow flash. The other filament is tail light. This filament is wired to the headlight switch, not to the T/S switch. This is true in all methods described. The 7 wire will handle all you want to do. We will help wire it if you need. Mostly splicing into stuff.

2. Maintain Sig Stat 700:
a. You can do it with two bulbs per side. I believe you don't want that.
b. 5 pin Bosch Relay solution in diagram below is supposed to do it.

3. Don't know about the idea of using diodes so I would not do it that way. Can't advise on that way.

Diode voltage question answered. They deal in amps mostly and voltage max 2nd. The 80111 is rated at 6A. The actual diode part number not given and probably costs 75 cents.... or less. Diodes are not the key to anything you want to do.

John, call me or PM- - - -I'n drowning in bovine effluent here. The switch I linked already has the brake light discriminator circuit built in, and your local FLAPS has rolls of wire. There's no need to get fancy- - - - -four pieces of wire from the cab to the existing bulb sockets and a 6 volt flasher will put you in business.
Jerry

I'm with Jerry. Get the 7-wire switch and be done with it. That's what I did to add turn signals to my truck.

Bartamos' diagram has me scratching my head, and while I have no doubt it would work, it sure complicates things. You still have to run separate wires to the brake lights from wherever you put the relays.

I know what you mean Kevin. I only included it in case a person wants to stay with a 4 wire T/S switch. With caveat "supposed to do it".

Good to hear that Peggy gets the socks.

Ok, thanks for the input. And I hear what you are saying. I feel you, groove??

Now that we've all hugged...

1. I'm pretty sure I said up front that I have a 700. I don't *want* to use the CCP-made chrome-plated, 7-wire does everything but make a latte thing. For starters, it's not the same vintage as my truck. Second, it's exceptionally UGLY. I will not profane the innate utilitarian beauty of Charlie's cab with that gaudy bit of cheesy bling. *I* really like the look of the 700 and I am willing to put in a little effort to make it work. And this is about *me.*

2. Yes, I get that what I am trying to do is harder. If I wanted to go the easy route, I would have stayed in the Navy rather than go Marine Corps. As a retiree, I would go fishing rather than work as a truck driver/equipment operator for an excavating company.

3. Not sure what 3 is. I think I've covered it.

4. Thanks Bill for actually answering the question!! Kevin -- Yes, your diagram is exactly what I was thinking. Bart -- NOT using the chrome thingy. Jerry -- Bovine effluent?? You're just figuring that out *now*??? Gord -- yeah, but they're *my* socks ...

To all of you:
I'm not worthy of your friendship.

Paint the chrome thing- - - - -Occam's razor, ya know! The same style switch is available in less gaudy plumage, and I was installing them 50 years ago.

www.ebay.com/itm/404845673226?

Jerry

No means no, Jerry! And OMG!!! That one is even uglier!!!

I’ve always thought the AH Sprite turn signal switch (mounts in dash hole) would be my switch of choice if I was to go there, its a 3 position switch, center off/ left/right

https://bugeyeguyparts.com/products/turn-signal-switch

Not sure what it would take to integrate ie: wiring/ sockets/etc but is sure better looking than the thing hanging on my steering column… it lit a indicator light on one of the gauges…..obviously no return function

Chuck

Use a 55-57 Chevy passenger car steering column and turn signal switch. Looks "original"- - -works right. Think "outside the box"!
Jerry

The clamp mounted turn signals are era correct aftermarket and dealer accessories. The 4 wire predates the 6+ models. They were available from factory for Chevy truck in about 1954. Integral to column.

I got the black version of Jerry's first link - agree that the chrome is just NOT appropriate - and I painted it the same color as the steering column.

I have a old 4 wire switch that came with the truck, but it used ugly mickey mouse turn signals mounted on top of the cab. Yuk! - Those went away first thing.

I'll throw my 2 cents in here. My truck has a 3 wire turn signal switch, there were some remnants of separate signal lights on the rear of the truck when I acquired it. I gutted the wiring and rear lights, installed single bulb medium duty truck lights, wired (2) DPDT relays under the dash, the switch just activates a relay and the flasher relay will happily run the rear and front turn signals, and they work when you apply the brakes. I don't know how to draw pictures with this electric typewriter but I think I made a wiring diagram that I could jamb through the phone wires for you.

3 wires coming out of turn signal switch? Using relays? What switch is that? Better post pics of switch and that diagram. You take a good photos of the diagram and switch and relays and use attachment manager to add to your post.

"I gutted the wiring and rear lights, installed single bulb medium duty truck lights"

You don't say how many bulbs each side in rear?

Anxious to learn this trick.

Some really great options used about 49-53+: Sparton SCS 3R, BLC 6004 (Signal Stat?) and the Chevy official accessory switch: Guide 6004. Find the 6/7 wire, self cancelling versions. Really Retro/Deco era correct. Very nice to have the self cancelling wheel. Usually cast gray or black. Getting harder to find in good shape. The Sparton was used on a lot of old Willys jeeps.

I'll try to get some picture and the diagram I drew up, for now though to answer the question, I am using one 1157 bulb on each side in the rear.

Buckshot -- Like Bart said, just take a picture of what you have and attach it here.

More good input, so thanks! Well ... except for Jerry's. A car steering column is thinking outside the box? I worry about you, Jerry.

Good link for those relays, Bart!

The tri-5 switch assembly and housing can also be adapted to the truck steering column, and it would look right at home. There's lots of ways to make original-looking parts work, when a little thinking is done. The only slightly tricky part would be making the self-cancelling assembly work. No matter how it happens, you need a 7-wire switch with a brake light discriminator in it, not some Rube Goldberg aftermarket approach.
Jerry

Rain or shine, roll down that window and signal your intensions with your arm. Of course, kids these days would think you're throwing gang signs and would start rattling off about "popping caps", disrespect and other such nonsense.

Only in California.

Mnsmoth,
So correct. Funny they still teach (in Ca) the hand signals during drivers education which was On-Line for my now 17 yr old. When I tried to stump him while he was driving under a permit , he actually got the Hand signals correct! So after that he learned how to drive the 3 on tree too! I wish I took a picture of him hand signaling in the 50' but i did not...

My favorite bumper sticker- - - - -"Horn's broke- - - - -watch for finger!"
LOL!
Jerry

My truck has separate fixtures for the rear turn signals. And an ancient 4 wire signal switch on the column that looks just right.

I only run a single tail light on the left side. My truck looks a little on the rough side so most people are trying to avoid getting too close to me in case something else fall off. I don't need no stinking turn signals.

3 lefts equals a right, anyway.

Carl, last week a lady followed me into the Advance Auto Parts lot to ask me about my hand signal.. She didn't know that "L" shaped up meant right turn. She was happy to learn all three - left (she knew), right and stop ( she just learned). I do have brake lights so I never use the upside down "L".

Here are some pictures of my 3 wire switch, relays, and 1157 tail lights. I'll have to re-draw the wire diagram so it photographs well. The 2 corner lights are markers, the running, turn, and brakes are all in the 2 bigger lights.

Does that truck have a Caterpillar diesel? I assume it's the International Harvester.

Jerry -- *You* of all people are going to throw shade on our patron saint, Rube Goldberg????? I'm shocked, SHOCKED!!

Mark ... Sigh ... Not *all* of us live in sunny SoCal, you know. Lately, it's been a little chilly to roll the window down, stick the arm out and do what needs doin'. Besides, here (in the greater National Capitol Area), who knows what they think I'm doing when I use arm signals ...??

Otto -- I don't know about Georgia, but around here, being a driver or operator of a Cat-powered truck or piece of equipment qualifies you to run those (and/or a Cat hat -- a la the Snowman) on your truck (any truck). I ran a Cat 953 Monday but I was on the Linkbelt today.

Back to business ...

This project is temporarily on hold pending arrival of parts ...

I've learned quite a lot. I've come a long way since almost failing Double E back in the day ...

That is the rear view of the 1957 Chevrolet 5700, no diesel, just a good deal on the mudflaps. My International is a utility tractor 300U