So I ordered two kits of 10 bolts, the longer wheel studs for my T170 rear axle hubs in order to safely attach the new 22.5" wheels I got. Ordered P/N 610-0159.10, and got these great big Dayton wheel Budd Nut bad boys instead.. They look to be about an inch and a quarter in diameter, and they're left handed.
I called the vendor and the lady on the other end was super helpful, they even had a line where I could text these pics to show them, so we'll see how it goes.
When I get the correct studs I will come back and put the pics here. Of course, then the easy part will be done and I might have to take the hub apart and install them.. I'm sure that'll entail some new wheel cylinders, and I'll then see how all that new hardware I installed in 1996 is holding up.
A good chance the parts picker was a machine with a scanner or totally inattentive chuckle head. It's in the box so it must be the right part - duh!
Sounds like they have a very helpful and courteous staff to resolve the problem at least. Best of luck on getting the correct studs!
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Tronman ... Forgive me if I am not quick on the uptake here -- Is the problem that the studs are too big in diameter, they are the wrong hand thread, or all of the above?
Perhaps I'm stating the obvious here and that this is something you already know... But you do know that your truck (if it was anything like my '65 GMC 4400) probably has right hand threaded studs on one side and left hand threaded studs on the other? Did you specify?
If you don't know or aren't aware, the studs will be marked with a "L" on the end if they are left hand threaded.
As for the actual stud size, I don't recall off hand what the correct size is for that truck. There *is* a fair amount of variance among the truck sizes and you need to be specific when you order them.
Again, apologies if you already know this and *did* specify ...
John
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
Another thing when dealing with modern big truck parts suppliers -- the lug nuts themselves (multi-piece Budd lug nuts -- inner and outer) differ if you are using steel or aluminum Budd wheels. The parts supplier will need to know that, as well. Using the wrong ones could be ... problematic.
Hopefully, the more knowledgeable Big Bolt guys will be along to set us all straight on this.
Last edited by John Milliman; 03/08/20241:23 AM.
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
@John Milliman the lug nuts on my bus are smaller in diameter than these bolts. They're wrong, I promise :-D
Also, my bus has the regular two ton Chevy Motor wheels, the idea here being to remove the Firestone RH-5 widow makers and replace them with modern 22.5" wheels for which I can get tires without having to sign away my firstborn. None of my threads are left handed. None of the lug threads on my Dad's truck (same year, make, model, series but flatbed vs bus) were left handed, either.
Well, somebody here has the answer for you, I hope, because we've gone through all I know to check.
On my '65 GMC firetruck (a 4400), I had the RH-5s on a 6-bolt pattern. They were pretty challenging to replace, but we eventually found 7 single piece tubeless wheels on the 6 bolt pattern. Some came from a school bus and the others from a '70's U-Haul F600.
At least its Friday
~ John
A kid raised on Hotwheels, Matchbox and Tonka cannot be reasonably expected to own only one vehicle as an adult.
1949 Chevrolet 3804 In the Legacy Gallery | In the Gallery Forum 1973 IH 1310 Dump 1963 Kaiser M38A1 2001 International/AmTran RE3000 "Skoolie" 2014 Ford E-350 4x4 (Quigley)
So we can all be on the same page, we're talking about your 1965 bus, right? It has 10 lug rear hubs and Motor Wheels (the 1967 would have 6-lug Budd Wheels).
You ordered new lug studs Dorman 610-0159.10 which are the same as GM 3765876 (11/16-16 x 3-1/4" long studs), you got the wrong part Dayton p/n 13-1617L (1-1/8"-16 x 3.56" long), so there's no issue there, the vendor just needs to fix that for you.
My question is why are you changing the studs to begin with? If I'm reading my books right the Dorman studs you ordered should be the same as the factory studs you have now...
Steel 20" Motor Wheels and steel 22.5" Motor Wheels should swap back and forth all day, what am I missing?
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
There was another thread here in Big Bolts about this. What's happening is, the new 22.5" wheels you have to buy to replace the RH-5s, are 3/32" of an inch thicker flange than the original wheels were. So, when you go to bolt the pair of duals up to the rear, the studs are no longer long enough. Another Bolter found these studs that fit the '67 model year GM T170 Corporate rear axle that I put into this rig back in the '90s when I couldn't get the parts to rebuild the original T150. These new studs measure 3/8" longer than the originals did, or so the specs say-therefore they should be long enough to extend past the end of the nut threads with the new, thicker wheels bolted to the hubs.
The T170 was offered with 10 lug motor wheels well up into the '80s.
I have a 1967 GMC bus with a Spicer rear end, and it's got bigger size 10 lug hub pilot wheels on it. Still 20" tires but much bigger pilot diameter. They're not Dayton. There are no Budd style or Dayton wheels in my yard.
Meanwhile, I haven't heard back from the vendor as yet, but it's only been a day or two, so we'll see. I just found it kinda humorous that I ordered 5/8" RH thread diameter studs and got these monster 1 1/4" diameter units in left handed thread.. like the most wrong they could get it :-D
My '57 has left hand threads on the drivers side of the truck, front and rear. Mine are Budd wheels-6 lug, nuts are 3/4" thread, 1.5" hex. The rear studs must be 5/8" in order to accommodate the Budd inner nut.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
I just found it kinda humorous that I ordered 5/8" RH thread diameter studs and got these monster 1 1/4" diameter units in left handed thread.. like the most wrong they could get it :-D
You ordered Dorman 610-0159.10 which are 11/16-16 RH x 3-1/4" long studs (not 5/8"), is that what you need and are they long enough for your new wheels?
What size and how long are your existing studs?
What size lug holes do your new wheels have?
Originally Posted by 78buckshot
My '57 has left hand threads on the drivers side of the truck, front and rear. Mine are Budd wheels-6 lug, nuts are 3/4" thread, 1.5" hex. The rear studs must be 5/8" in order to accommodate the Budd inner nut.
78buckshot,you have stud piloted Budd wheels with beveled holes and 2 nuts holding the rear wheels on. Tronman has hub piloted Motor wheels with straight cut holes and one flanged lug nut holding his rear wheels on, two completely different setups.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
@MikeB They must be 11/16" and I was mistaken about them being 5/8" it was a guess on my part. I just know they're not large by huge and left handed like what I received :-D
Other than being a little bit thicker, the new Motor wheels I have, are the same as the original widow makers. Holes the same, hub pilot the same. They fit right on, the flange is just thicker.
Have you measured your existing lug studs? If they are factory then they are the same size as the Dorman 610-0159.10 that your trying to order, so they won't work either.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Just went through the exact same thing. Best of luck.... Only solution I found was getting custom studs made. I searched for DAYS. Custom ones are an exact match to the originals but 3/8" longer in the non threaded area. expensive but couldn't find another correct option.
EDIT- also these have all the right specs... But the picture is not correct in what you get anywhere even on Dormans website. The knurling is completely wrong. It will not connect with the hub flange, its a course knurl ours is like a fine knurling. I know thats not the correct way to say it but didnt know another way.