How am I supposed to get access to the back side of the nuts on the inner channel? There are square nuts on the bottom that I can easily reach. What tool can I use to stop the top of the nut from rotating? Doesn't have access to get any wrench in there?
I don't have your model but they may have used carriage bolts, the bolt may have a square shank that will keep it from turning. I would soak them well with penetrant, use heat on the square nut if it won't damage anything. You want to make sure that the nut is going to come loose and not spin the square shank.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
You can try a screwdriver to wedge in the back of the channel to hold the carrage bolt tight while you wrench the nut off .use lots of penatrant to loosen them up first .If I remember correct once you get them loose you might be able to wiggle them out as they are fitted in a keyhole type hole with a tab holding the head of the carrage bolt
I spent over an hour using penetrating oil and a torch heating the nuts up cherry red and succeeded in removing all but the last three. Like you, I couldn’t keep the bolt from turning so I used a angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove the rest. Where the rear fender bolts to the running board, I found clutch head machine screws with square headed nuts. There was no way those were coming apart so I cut them off too.
I ordered a new set of running board bolts from Classic Parts for only six dollars. In retrospect, I should have cut them all, as I wasted allot of time removing bolts that were too corroded to reuse.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I broke or cut off mine. After trying to remove them I found that tighting to break them or cutting them off was much better. You will want to replace them so no need to try and save them.
When you replace them, use stainless steel carriage bolts and stainless washers and nuts. The next guy to remove them will want to send you a thank you note.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
The original carriage bolts have an extra large head on them. This helps to naturally align them the way the wide heads fit securely in the slots in the running board. A standard sized carriage bolt head would make installing them to the running board brackets a major pain.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I took the ones off my 53 a couple of months ago. I thought I was going to be smart and used penetrating oil and wire brushed the bolt ends. A couple came off. Most of them spun and tore up the slot in the running board that now needs repaired. I was able to break a couple. Some of them I was able to cut the nuts with a 3" cut off wheel. The ones back in the corners of the mount I had to grind off with a carbide burr on a die grinder. In retrospect I should have probably just cut the ones that didn't easily come off and not damaged the running boards.
Well guys success! I was able to use a combination of the suggested methods. Most of them came off by wiggling with a pair of vice grips. A couple were more stubborn and I had to resort to a cut-off wheel. And one came off just by loosening the nut!
That may be the first one in the history of Chevy trucks.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Glad to hear you’ve got them off. Sounds like my exact experience!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum