I am considering putting hushmat or similar material on the floor and firewall area of my cab but wondering what those that have done this put over the hushmat material to provide a durable surface.
My impression is that the material must be covered for both appearance and durability.
Also when installed was it cut to allow removal of floor opening covers and mounting screws? I am specifically thinking about the transmission cover and the battery cover.
I used Hush mat in the Galaxie 500. I installed it directly on the floor pan. It can be easily cut to shape or for openings like plugs, etc. I installed carpet padding and carpet directly over it.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I think I recall seeing some fellow Bolters laying a reproduction rubber floor mat or similar product over the Hushmat (or as others may know it as Dynamat). Will see if I can locate one of those older posts and add a link as I have time later.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I used some 1/8 inch thick neoprene foam I had left from another project. It was self-adhesive. I then added a layer of self-adhesive radiant foil barrier on top of that (you need that thin metal layer to convert the sound waves into heat where they get dispersed back into the foam). That's really all the hushmat type products do, but they all use very thin foam it seems. Carpet and a jute mat beneath are okay but a rubber floor mat over jute is fine also and may be easier to keep clean. Be certain to do the area under the seat also. Your rear cab mounts can transmit a good amount of noise. And while you're at it, please check the front cab mounts. The rubber replacement pads you get for those aren't made from the right material and they compress pretty quickly. That (or the dead old pads) will let the pinchweld of your cab sit right smack on your frame and that will let a lot of noise be sent into your cab. I use common shower pan liner (a tough pcv material) cut into pieces and laminated to make new pads for the front mounts...it kills noise and it won't compress. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Sounds like a rubber floor mat is the approach I will plan to take.
I plan to do as much of the floor and firewall as I can. I have firewall mounted pedals so not much in the way forward of the seat area other than the high beam light switch. My seat mounting is different but I should be able to do the area under and behind the seat.
On my 1950 I used POR 15 on the cab floor and back wall, roof, I used Eastwood's X-MAT next, and then a repo rubber floor mat. I did cut the X-MAT for to battery lid and the master cylinder accress plug. I trimmed my floor mat flush to the sides on the floor. I can just lift up the mat to access both.
I was not anticipating carpet in the truck, just seems like it would not be a good idea.
My point was that you can install whatever you want over it like the factory style rubber mat.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I did mine using the “Dynamat” on the inside firewall, floor, under seat areas. I trimmed out the trans cover edge by about an inch on top and installed a new gasket on the trans cover and battery cover. I also sealed the edges of the Dynamat with Mylar tape to keep the butyl rubber from contacting the rubber stock mat when hot . I used the factory firewall mat also, but haven’t done the inner doors or behind the seat or cab back yet.
Putting in the new motor and got side tracked! Will advise when complete.
I use the aluminum-backed peel and stick roofing material available at any big box hardware store. It is a lot less expensive and does the same job as Hushmat. I did that on my '49 and it made a huge difference with heat and noise.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I used I think the same as 52Carl.: It worked like a charm. Easy on with a small hard roller. No smell. I did everything in this, floors, roof, gas tank. Good luck.
I used the product shown in the image. I applied to the firewall inside and out , floor , overhead , even the gas tank behind the seat of my ‘54. The noise reduction was dramatic. I have carpet covering the insulation on the cab floor ; after 1 year and 1000 miles the stuff looks like I applied it last week, including the area under my feet.
I hadn’t heard of the brand but I thought it looked promising and potentially cost effective so I initially ordered a small quantity. I liked everything about it so I went all in , no regrets. If I had another project I would look no further. (Amazon)