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I am currently sanding out the sags and runs I got with the epoxy paint I used. I have decided if possible to go back to a single stage over this epoxy once I have it smooth again. I was very happy with how the flats came out, but not the verticals. I even had surface temps over 100 to help with curing and I still got runs and color differences.

Any possible problems with adhering a single stage to scuffed up epoxy? I am reading about adding clear to it as well to help with UV protection too.

I would recommend a primer or primer-sealer between the current coating and whatever you choose for the finish coating. Stay with the same brand and line, if you are shooting PPG single stage then use the primer that is recommended for that paint. Whatever brand and type of paint you choose, use that manufacturers primer and recommended steps.

Was hoping not to prime again. It would be blue on blue. I guess I will have to call epoxy manufacturer and see what they say too. It's not a ppg or omni epoxy. I will be shooting an omni if I do this.

What brand of epoxy?

A primer-sealer is a very light bodied primer that is not designed to be sanded, it is not designed to fill imperfections. The job of a primer or primer-sealer is to ensure intercoat adhesion, it is a bond between the old and new coatings. Since your epoxy finish is already cured, the new topcoat won't "stick" to it like a primer-sealer will. Do a great job sanding, clean up the surface, shoot primer-sealer, wait the recommended recoat time and shoot topcoat. P.S.,The Omni products are a line of PPG, they have Omni primer-surfacers which are made to fill and be sanded, they have sealers that are intercoat sealers/adhesion promoters that are non-sanding.

Just did some hunting on their website. Says you can paint over it. Link below.

https://sprayliningandcoatings.com/

I would call them and explain what you want for a final project, what are your expectations, see what they recommend for painting over their product. They may tell you that shooting Omni straight over their coating will give you what you expect, who knows until you talk to them. My personal view is this, the coating you have now has a texture, and it sounds like some kind of tough coating that is kinda' slippery, it will be very difficult to sand it enough to get down into the divots and give the new paint any "bite". Just my 2c and I would not want to go through all that labor just to have my new paint peeling off with a pressure washer.

Man you've wasted a lot of time and money on the epoxy job if it's going to be covered up. Isn't there any sanding and buffing that could give you the finish you want?

Buckshot,

What I have is not textured. It is almost completely smooth. It would take minimal sanding to prep it with exceptions of the parts that ran on me.

Otto,

My problem is I seem to have color variations. Even when I am measuring with a scale things seem a little different batch to batch. I can't mix everything up at once cause the spray time is limited. I feel like I gave it the good college try, but it may be time to admit failure.

OK, that will certainly help when it is time to re-coat, I was just going on your original pictures, and it looked textured.

Doing some sanding today to see how this goes. I am using 320 to get it close and theni will use 400 to bring in rest of the way. I am getting it decent pics show what I have started with on the verticals to where I have it. I am bummed this epoxy sagged so much on verticals cause I love how the flats came out. Once these verticals are flattened out I guess I hit the good areas with 400 and prep for paint?

Wow, that looks ugly! I can see why you would be very disappointed with those results. I agree with 78buckshot in that you need to put a sealer on to minimize the possibility of any more issues.

Phak1, At this point I agree. The cab is a total loss. I will be sealing or priming again. This sucks so bad.

Man that sucks.

Maybe lighter coats with a longer flash time will help?

Not trying any more on this resto. Maybe on next one. I have been thinking about a rotisserie that will not allow the epoxy to sag.

Started in this morning on sanding till my arms are ready to fall off. Big flats are easy with electric and air blocks. Everything else is by hand. Wish someone would have kicked me.in the ding ding for wanting to try this stuff for paint.

Sorry to see it went so wrong, but only someone who hasn’t had to do anything twice or 3 times over to get it right can talk, and for sure that is not me.
Glad to see you are right back on it…..
Best of luck this time round…you will get there.

Chuck

I agree with 78. I'd use a non sanding sealer primer first. Prep the existing finish like you normally would n preparation for shooting the top coat. Shoot two coats of the non sanding S/P. While you're cleaning your equipment & mixing paint & whatever, s/p will be curing (usually 30 to 60 minutes) & you'll be ready for topcoat

Sealer/primer , besides better adhesion, gives a really nice uniform base for the top coat. That's my .02 worth.

Sorry, just read the rest of the thread. Try sanding with 180 dry for the first round of sanding, then switch to 320 prior to the non sanding sealer/primer. Good luck.

Putting in some.serious sand time. Doing as.much as I can with a variable speed orbital. Big flats crank it up. Slow it.down for delicate stuff and tight corners.

The orange peel is going away. Getting flat and ready for a sealer. Hoping to schedule paint end of April. Friend who does this more than I do. Two guns going at the same time.

Another question...... been doing some research. Which is the best method. Add clear to the last coat of.single stage or simply clear after single stage is down?

What kind of finish are you trying to accomplish? Showroom shine? There really is no reason to add a clear to a single stage. Are you buying a semi gloss or flat single stage and trying to make it shine?

If you lay your primer and single stage “system”per the product DataSheets you will have all the UV protection you need and can cut/polish out the finish. A clear means cleaning the gun( or ideally a different gun)/mixing the clear and shooting multiple more coats…
For me that only provides the opportunity for more debris in the paint, more cumulative orange peel, plus the opportunity to sand/polish thru the clear.
Plus touchup/redo on that 1 darn piece will be that much more involved to redo with clear there….….single stage can put out a darn good and durable finish…..always has when laid down & polished correctly..
Out here in nor cal I am able to get PPG Shopline primers and Delfleet Essential single stage components, consistently works well, and hey… it’s truck paint!

Look forward to seeing your good results

Chuck

I agree with MNSmith and Hanks custodian, keep it simple. Preparation has to be perfect if you expect a perfect top coat, don't try to hide any imperfections with more paint. The PPG single stage topcoats are great. I am very happy with the acrylic enamel or the acrylic urethane, both are self gloss.

I am looking for a good paint job. I understand with my newbie skills there will be a few issues, but I want someone to have to look for them, not blatantly see them.

The single stage I bought for the interior is OMNI. It shot OK and has some shine, but not clear shine.

Clear, either mixed in with last coat of single stage or by itself after 2 to 3 coats of single stage is for UV protection and lasting shine without buffing.

I do have a little help when it comes time to shoot. He just has no desire to help prep, so I am sanding till the epoxy is smooth. If I won't be able to see it I am leaving it. This stuff is so hard it is taking forever to sand down.

Each product has its own procedure for applying and its own thinner/reducer/hardener/activator whichever is appropriate for the type of material. What was the advertised gloss of the OMNI interior paint, was it supposed to be high gloss or a matt finish?

Don't know advertised gloss? I went to the paint house and said I wanted a single stage for 1966 lt blue.

Finally found a little direction on adding clear to single stage.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSDWTkkfnN8

Single stage paint should give you a nice glossy finish especially after you buff it out. Adding clear to the mix will give you more depth to the paint, but will also complicate the repair process if you happen to need it.

If you want more gloss and depth, you should use a color/clear coat process.

Is it possible that you told your paint guy you wanted paint for your interior and he gave you a lower gloss, so it didn’t reflect the sun? This is typical for interiors.

I recently had my truck painted with a single stage urethane and I am very happy with the results. I had it painted black which everyone warned me against but I love it.

The last of my Omni for the Burb interior. Plenty of gloss and UV protection. Second picture is my C3500 a few summers ago. This time, Tamco. Plenty of gloss, UV protection and whatever else. Both done single stage. The Burb exterior, hopefully done this summer, will be a first full scale base/clear job for me. But, my tests to date don't have it much more glossier than SS unless multiple coats of clear are done.

Maybe? I haven't buffed it yet. Had a few runs to sand and reshoot.

Dumb question. My 3m red pads are not scuffing this bedliner very well. Can I use the steel wool with soap for all the difficult areas that sand paper won't fit into?

Update on my painting whoas. I have sanded about everything. I found the way to deal with this stuff. Start with 100 grit to get it even, then jump to 220, then I used the soap filled so pads to smooth things rest of the way. I Shot the interior yesterday. The door jams had heavy epoxy. I was nervous if was prepped well enough, but everything seemed to go well according to a friend with experience who sprayed for me in my garage. Two coats covered really well especially with the previous epoxy being blue too.

In another week the bed parts will be ready.

Looking good. It's been a long journey for you, and it looks like it's finally coming together.

Just think of the great build up you have.
Long tough way to go, but the protection should be excellent.

Yes this epoxy was an amazing and hard guide coat. I could have lived a happy life without it