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| | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 349 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 349 | How difficult is it to remove the rear fenders from a late 40's or early 50's chevy or GMC truck? Approximately how many bolts per fender? Any tips aside from lubricating them really well before attempting this?
I'm headed to the truck bed this weekend, but am not currently near it now and can't inspect it in person. Otherwise i would duck my head in there and find out. Thanks a ton for the help to lesson any surprises when i get there this weekend. LOL | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,172 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,172 | You'll likely break off a few of the bolts anyway, so what I'd do is just tighten them and break them off. You'll want to use new bolts anyway, as the underside of the rear fenders gets pretty rusty. There are 10 per fender, IIRC.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Nov 2020 Posts: 789 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2020 Posts: 789 | __KROIL!!! Kroil is the best penetrating oil there is. Soak each fastener for a few days before trying to work them loose.
Like Mr Hanson said, breaking them is another option. Generally speaking, fenders on/off one of these trucks is akin to Tinker Toys.
Last edited by Peggy M; 01/31/2024 9:18 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 36 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2019 Posts: 36 | The stock bolts in my 54 bed had a philips head making it very difficult to try and remove. As discussed twisting them off was the easiest in the end. If you decide to try and remove them add a little heat to the nut before you try to remove it, If you are working alone, you can tack weld the head in place if you dont mind the minor scaring to the bed. It is easily cleaned up with a grinder/sander after. They come off pretty easy and quick, but chances are you are going to get dirty, wear a hat and safety glasses.
1954 GMC Series 1
102-24 Series 1/2 Ton Long Bed
248 to a Hydramatic
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,513 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,513 | The fasteners in a ‘51 came stock with clutch head machine screws with nuts inside the fender. Working as a one man band, I like that idea of tacking the screwheads to the bed.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Nov 2020 Posts: 789 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2020 Posts: 789 | Op-
Are the fasteners in question clutch heads? | | | | | Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 349 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 349 | Thanks everyone, i'll let you know how it turns out when i get this done. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Oct 2016 Posts: 916 | After soaking in aerokroil, I used a little heat. Didn’t help much. I am a huge fan of Kroil products, too…
As mentioned above, most of them just broke in half. Trying to drill them was also a pointless exercise- I swear they were made out of tool grade steel….hard as anything I have ever tried to drill. It was weird.
As mentioned above, tightening them and letting them snap off worked better then anything!
~ Dave
1950 Chevrolet 3600 3/4-ton with 261 engine & T5 Transmission
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